Puffed Elbow Sleeve Front Button Blouse

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 1.2 cm, all other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 1 piece
  • Front neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch waist, shoulder, and bust darts on the back and front. Press the depths of the shoulder and waist darts towards the center of the respective pieces, and the bust darts upwards.
3. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
4. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
5. Stitch shoulder seams of facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
6. Press the allowance along the inner edge of the integrated placket to the wrong side. Place the facing with the garment right sides together, fold the integrated placket to the right side (the facing is positioned between the blouse and the placket), stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn the plackets and facing to the wrong side and press. Topstitch the plackets and facing to the blouse.
7. Cut a bias binding for the sleeve slit, 25*3 cm. Mark the placket line on the sleeve, cut the sleeve along the line. Lay out the sleeve along the cut line in a straight line and finish the slit with a bound seam with a closed edge. The width of the binding is 0.5 – 0.7 cm. The seam width along the length of the slit is 0.5 – 0.7 cm, decreasing to 0.2 cm at the top of the slit.
8. Stitch and overcast sleeve seams. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Press and overcast allowances. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosely tensioned upper thread and gather.
9. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the cuff. Turn the piece to the right side, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
10. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. On the right placket, make buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs.