Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining; shoulder pads; sleeve heads; fusible interfacing; separating zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center upper back – 2 pieces
- Side upper back – 2 pieces
- Center lower back – 2 pieces
- Side lower back – 2 pieces
- Center upper front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Center lower front – 2 pieces
- Side lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Underlap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag — 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center upper front — 2 pieces
- Center lower front — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
Also, armhole sections on the back and front, pocket opening, garment hem, and sleeve hem are interfaced.
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the center upper back, press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the princess seams of the upper and lower back pieces, press seams open. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces together, press seams open. Stitch the center back seam, press seams open.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper and lower front pieces, press seams open. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces together, press seams open.
- Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the underlap to the large pocket bag, folding the long edge inwards. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and overcast the pocket bag edges.
- Place fronts right sides together and align edges, measure the length of the front edges. Attach the separating zipper to the edge of the front.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press seams open.
- Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and neckline facing, press seams open.
- Overcast and press the hem allowance of the garment to the wrong side. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down. Pin the front facing and the top of the garment and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitch the lower edge of the front facing to the front strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Stitch along the upper edge of the sleeve cap with a small stitch length. Gather the sleeve cap and ease the fullness. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch darts and seams, set in sleeves. Overcast, fold, and topstitch the lower edge of the lining. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem.
