Fitted Dress Contrasting Yoke Long Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Contrasting fabric for trim. ALSO NEEDED: invisible zipper, fusible interfacing, 2 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom – 3.0 cm, hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 2.0 cm, allowance along the vent – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Markings on the patterns are on the right side.

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 1 piece
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Back yoke - 2 pieces
  • Front yoke_1 - 1 piece
  • Front yoke_2 - 1 piece
  • Collar - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar - 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the collar and the one-piece facings of the front yokes.
2. Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
3. Attach the back yoke to the lower back part, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast.
4. On the left center back part, along the vertical edge of the vent, cut off 5 cm. On both center back pieces, fuse interfacing to the vent on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the neckline to the first mark and from the second mark to the corner of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
5. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
6. Overcast the inner edges of the one-piece yoke facings. Press the facings to the right side and stitch the upper corner up to the marked line. Clip the allowance at the line, turn the facings to the wrong side, and press. Overcast buttonholes on the right yoke. Place the right yoke over the left and secure at the lower edge.
7. Attach the front yoke to the lower front part, press allowances downwards and overcast.
8. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Turn the finished collar right side out, straighten the corners, and press. Attach the outer edge of the collar to the neckline, aligning the round mark on the collar with the center back seam, press allowances towards the collar. Turn under the open inner edge of the collar and topstitch into the attachment seam.
10. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and overcast.
11. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom and sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
12. Sew buttons onto the left yoke corresponding to the buttonholes.