Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing, lining fabric.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; slit allowance – 6 cm; hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts). WHEN STITCHING PARTS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Central upper front part - 2 pieces
- Side upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part - 1 piece
- Lapel - 4 pieces
- Neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Back armhole facing – 2 pieces
- Front armhole facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Central upper front part - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Lapel – 2 pieces
- Neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Back armhole facing – 2 pieces
- Front armhole facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pattern pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the upper and lower back parts, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the darts on the lower front part, press the dart depths towards the center.
- Stitch the upper and lower back parts together, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- On the left lower back part, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the slit. On both lower back parts, interface the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the parts along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overcast the center back edge separately on each part. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Fold the lapel pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Turn the piece right side out, smooth, and press.
- Fold the central upper front part with the lining, insert the lapel between them, and stitch the center edge. Turn the lining to the wrong side, smooth, and press. Secure the lining to the front along the edges and then treat as one piece. Secure the lapel to the front along the upper edge.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper front pieces. Press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Attach the yoke to the upper front part (the yoke is longer than the front), press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Overlap the right front over the left and secure along the lower edge.
- Attach the lower front part to the upper part, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the outer edge of the neckline facing. Place the neckline facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline and the yoke section up to the mark. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facing to the wrong side, smooth, and press. Secure to the shoulder seams and center back seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the armhole facings, press allowances open, overcast the outer edge. Place the facing with the armhole right sides together and stitch. Clip the allowances at curves, turn the facing to the wrong side, smooth, and press. Secure to the shoulder and side seams.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
