Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; decorative buckle; 18 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 3.0 cm, back vent allowance – 6.0 cm. All other allowances – 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Center back - 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Middle front - 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Placket - 4 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Shoulder tab - 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- Collar placket - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab - 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket - 2 pieces
- Collar - 1 piece
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Collar placket – 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center, overcast and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- On the left center back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both center back pieces, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line. On the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the upper edge to the corner of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke, overcast and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Attach the side front piece to the middle front piece, press allowances towards the center, overcast and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center, overcast and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Fold the plackets right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn the placket right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the inner edge of the placket inwards by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the attachment seam and fold. Overlap the right front over the left front and topstitch, securing the fronts together. The stitching should end at the lower marked button mark.
- Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Clip allowances at curves, turn the flaps right side out, straighten seams and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Overcast the raw edge of the flaps. Attach the flaps to the front, turn down and topstitch.
- Overcast the left side edges separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the hem, press allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the shoulder tab in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long side and corner. Turn the shoulder tab right side out, straighten, press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge along the contour. Place the shoulder tab on the shoulder seam and secure at the neckline edge.
- Attach the placket to the collar, press allowances towards the placket and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Fold the upper collar with the lower collar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out, straighten and press. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Begin and end stitching strictly at the marked collar stand attachment seam line. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand with collar to the neckline, turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm along the collar and collar stand.
- Fold the sleeve tab in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long side and corner. Turn the sleeve tab right side out, straighten, press.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back of the sleeve and overcast. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right side out and press. Insert the cuff into the sleeve and attach to the lower edge, inserting the tab. Overcast allowances, turn the cuff to the right side.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, aligning notches, press allowances and overcast.
- Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by 2 cm and topstitch.
- Overcast one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 8 pieces. Topstitch the belt loops at the waist, shoulder seams, and sleeves.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out and press. Topstitch the belt around the perimeter 0.5 cm from the edge. Thread and secure the buckle.
- Sew buttons on the front, flaps, collar placket, tabs, and shoulder tabs.
