Panelled Jacket with Zippers and Buttons

Name: Panelled Jacket with Zippers and Buttons
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4580
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4580

A fitted, fully lined women's jacket with an asymmetric five-button front, a stand collar, and a lower band in a second fabric that ends in a point on the front. Four 15 cm metal zippers: two in the angled front seams and two at the sleeve hems. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dense fabrics made of natural or blended fibres, in related or contrasting colours: main fabric 1 for the body, sleeves, yoke and collar; main fabric 2 for the lower bands and the inner placket.

Tech. Description

Panelled Jacket with Zippers and Buttons

When To Wear

Spring and autumn over a top or a thin knit, with trousers, jeans or a straight skirt.
For everyday and smart-casual wear; the panels can be cut in two fabrics of related or contrasting colours.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.

Length: Hip length; the lower front band is cut asymmetrically and comes to a point on one side.

Collar: Stand collar cut in two layers, sewn to the back neckline and joined at the shoulder seams; it follows the off-centre front edge. The outer stand is interfaced.

Closure: Asymmetric front closure with five buttons; buttonholes on the right front, an inner placket in the second fabric attached to the facing.

Front: Centre front, side front, front inset and a shoulder yoke on each side. The bias seam between the side front and the front inset is left open from the mark and backed with a metal zipper, topstitched around.

Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap. The elbow seam is open at the hem over a metal zipper topstitched on three sides.

Back: Centre back and side backs joined by princess seams, with a lower back band in the second fabric.

Finishing: Front edges, stand and lower edge faced in one seam; hem and sleeve hems interfaced; stitch in the ditch along the stand seam.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, joined to the facings and to the lower bands; the lower front band is cut double.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Many panels with bias seams, four exposed zippers set into seam openings, a stand collar joined at the shoulders, an asymmetric faced front and a full bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Dense fabrics made of natural or blended fibres, in related or contrasting colours: main fabric 1 for the body, sleeves, yoke and collar; main fabric 2 for the lower bands and the inner placket.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, stand, facings, inner placket, hems, bias seam allowances)
4 metal zippers, 15 cm long
5 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns are without seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowances for the bias edges of the Side Front and Front Inset – 1.5 cm. Hem allowance for the sleeves – 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric 1:

Center Back – 1 piece
Side Back – 2 pieces
Front Inset – 2 pieces
Side Front – 2 pieces
Center Front – 2 pieces
Yoke – 2 pieces
Stand Collar – 2 pieces
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From main fabric 2:

Lower Back – 2 pieces
Lower Front – 4 pieces (outer and inner layer)
Inner Placket – 2 pieces

From lining fabric:

Side Front (lining) – 2 pieces
Side Back (lining) – 2 pieces
Center Back – 1 piece (cut using the main Center Back pattern)
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces (cut using the main Upper Sleeve pattern)
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces (cut using the main Lower Sleeve pattern)

From fusible interfacing:

Center Front – 2 pieces
Stand Collar – 1 piece
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Inner Placket – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces, as well as along the hem of the jacket and the sleeve hems.
Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back) and press open. Stitch the Lower Back to the back, pressing the seam allowances upwards. Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the back neckline, pressing the seam allowances towards the stand.
Interface the seam allowances of the bias edges of the Side Front and Front Inset. Stitch them together from the outer edges to the marks, press the seam allowances open, place a zipper underneath the opening and topstitch around it.
Stitch the Yoke to the Side Front, pressing the seam allowances towards the yoke. Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front / Front Inset), pressing the seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the Lower Front to the front, pressing the seam allowances upwards.
Stitch the side seams and press open. Stitch the shoulder seams together with the seam of the stand, pressing the seam allowances open.
Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) down to the mark and press open. Place a zipper under the seam allowances of the opening and topstitch on three sides. Press the sleeve hem to the wrong side. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches and easing in the sleeve cap. Press the seam allowances.
Stitch the Inner Placket to the Center Front Facing, pressing the seam allowances towards the placket. Assemble the lining pieces, stitch in the inner Stand Collar and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the left front sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings. Stitch the lower back and lower front sections to the lining.
Place the facing on the jacket front, right sides together, pin, and stitch all around the front edge, the stand and the lower edge of the jacket. Trim the seam allowances at the corners and clip the curves. Turn the jacket right side out, ease out the seams and press.
Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Tack the sleeve hem allowance to the zipper tape. Close the opening in the lining sleeve. Stitch-in-the-ditch along the stand attachment seam to secure the layers. Tack the jacket to the lining along the seam line of the lower sections.
Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons onto the left front.