Dress with Yoke, Flaps, and Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, denim fabrics. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, invisible zipper, 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance for garment and sleeve hem — 2.0 cm, slit allowance – 6 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 1 piece
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Front yoke — 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Tab - 2 pieces
  • Flap - 4 pieces
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Flap - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing — 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to flaps and neckline facings.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces, press allowances towards the center.
3. On the left back piece, cut 5 cm along the vertical edge of the slit. On both back pieces, fuse the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left piece along the slit fold line; on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Overlock the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the invisible zipper.
4. Fold flap pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim allowances at the corner, turn the flap right side out, shape, and press. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge, overcast the buttonhole.
5. Stitch the princess seams of the front, press allowances towards the center and overlock. Attach yokes to the front, inserting the flaps, press allowances towards the yokes and overlock.
6. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
7. Stitch shoulder seams of facings, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge. Place the dress with the facing right sides together, aligning the neckline edges. Stitch the neckline edge and the front opening. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn pieces right side out, shape and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and the zipper tape.
8. Fold tabs lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming allowances at corners, shape and press. Overlock the open short edge, overcast buttonholes. Topstitch tabs according to markings on the wrong side of the sleeves.
9. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and overlock.
10. Overlock the garment hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold the sleeve hem twice by 1 cm, press and topstitch.
11. Sew on buttons for flaps and on sleeves.