Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane; contrasting fabric or companion fabric. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for sleeve bottom – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
- From main fabric_1:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Left upper front part - 1 piece
- Right upper front part - 1 piece
- Left lower front part - 1 piece
- Right lower front part - 1 piece
- Lower sleeve part — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- From main fabric_2:
- Lower back placket - 2 pieces
- Left upper front placket - 2 pieces
- Right upper front placket - 2 pieces
- Left lower front placket - 2 pieces
- Right lower front placket - 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Left upper front placket - 1 piece
- Right upper front placket - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the facing and placket pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the back and front pieces. Press the waist dart depths towards the center of the pieces, and bust darts upwards.
- Serge the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Fold the left upper placket pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip curves, turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the left placket to the left upper front part, press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
- Fold the right upper placket pieces right sides together, insert the left upper front part between them and stitch the neckline edge. Clip curves, turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the right placket to the right upper front part, press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
- Fold the left lower placket pieces right sides together and stitch the bottom edge. Clip curves, turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the left placket to the left lower front part, press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
- Fold the right lower placket pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip curves, turn the piece right side out, press.
- Fold the left and right lower front parts right sides together, insert the right placket between the pieces and stitch. Press seam allowances towards the front and serge.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts together, press seam allowances upwards and serge.
- Fold the back placket pieces right sides together and stitch the bottom edge. Turn the piece right side out, press. Serge the upper edge of the inner placket. Attach the outer placket to the back, press seam allowances towards the placket.
- Serge the outer edges of the neckline facings. Place the facings with the dress and stitch the neckline edge. Press seam allowances.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, enclosing them with the facing. Press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Turn right side out, straighten, press. Stitch the center back seam allowances of the facings to the zipper tape.
- Stitch the side seams, enclosing them with the inner back placket. Press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Turn right side out, straighten, press. Topstitch the inner placket into the seam of attaching the outer placket.
- Attach the upper sleeve part to the lower part, press seam allowances upwards and serge. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press seam allowances and serge. Serge the bottom edge of the sleeve, press seam allowances to the wrong side and topstitch.
