Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: concealed zipper; fusible interfacing, 3 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.5 cm, back pocket top edge allowance – 2.5 cm; slit allowance – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back waistband - 1 piece
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Back yoke - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 1 piece
  • Front waistband - 1 piece
  • Upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Placket - 4 pieces
  • Collar stand - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Back pocket - 2 pieces
  • Front pocket - 2 pieces
  • Belt loop – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand - 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back and front pieces; press waist dart depths towards the center of the pieces, and bust darts upwards.
3. Attach back yoke to lower back part, press allowances towards the yoke and overlock.
4. On the left lower back part, along the vertical edge of the vent, trim 5 cm. On both lower back pieces, reinforce the vent with interfacing on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Overlock the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam up to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
5. Overlock the top edge of the back pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Overlock the pocket edges, press allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the back half and topstitch.
6. Attach back waistband to upper back part, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock. Attach lower back part to back waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
7. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the front pocket opening length + 2 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias strip with the pocket opening, right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the pocket.
8. Overlock the outer perpendicular edges of the pocket, press allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to the markings on the front half and topstitch.
9. Fold placket pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances at the curve. Turn pieces right side out and press. Attach the outer placket to the front, fold the allowance of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket. Overlock buttonholes on the right placket according to markings. Place the right placket over the left and secure at the lower edge.
10. Attach front waistband to upper front part, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock. Attach lower front part to front waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overlock.
11. Stitch shoulder and right side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock left side seams separately on each piece. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the mark and from the zipper mark to the bottom. Insert the zipper.
12. Fold collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge (start and end stitching precisely at the marked attachment line). Clip allowances, turn collar stand right side out and press. Attach the upper collar stand to the neckline, fold the allowance of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand.
13. Stitch sleeve seams, press allowances and overlock. Stitch cuff into a loop, press open allowances. Press cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Place cuff with wrong side of sleeve and stitch. Overlock allowances, turn cuff right side out.
14. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
15. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Sew on buttons.
16. Overlock one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 5 pieces. Topstitch belt loops at the waist according to the technical drawing sketch.