CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. Side upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. BACK PANEL insert - 2 QTY
- 4. Center lower BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 5. Side lower BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 6. Center upper FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 7. Side upper FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 8. FRONT PANEL insert - 1 QTY
- 9. Right lower FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 10. Left lower FRONT PANEL — 1 QTY
- 11. Left FLOUNCE - 1 QTY
- 12. Right FLOUNCE — 1 QTY
- 13. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 14. BACK NECK FACING – 2 QTY
- 15. FRONT NECK FACING – 1 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- 1. BACK NECK FACING – 2 QTY
- 2. FRONT NECK FACING – 1 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the neck FACING pieces.
- Stitch darts on the center upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center. Stitch the princess seams on the upper BACK PANEL pieces. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Stitch the BACK PANEL insert to the BACK PANEL. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press upwards.
- Stitch the princess seams of the FRONT PANEL, serge SEAM ALLOWANCES and press towards the center. Stitch the FRONT PANEL insert to the FRONT PANEL. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press upwards.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the upper BODICE, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the lower BACK PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Stitch the dart on the right FRONT PANEL. Stitch the side seams of the lower section, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
- Serge the lower SEAM ALLOWANCES of the FLOUNCES with a narrow rolled hem. Place the right FLOUNCE on the lower right FRONT PANEL, and secure along the princess seam of the FRONT PANEL. Serge the princess seam. Align and secure the upper edges along the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Prepare the left side similarly. Stitch the princess seam of the lower FRONT PANEL from the top to the NOTCH. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Arrange the FLOUNCE pleats. If necessary, press to secure the pleats. Stitch a securing seam along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the upper and lower parts of the dress. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press upwards.
- Serge the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the ZIPPER NOTCH to the hem. Insert the ZIPPER.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the FACINGS. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open and serge. Serge the outer edge of the FACINGS. Place the dress and FACING right sides together, aligning the neckline edges. Fold back the FACING 5 mm from the edges of the concealed fastening and pin to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the ZIPPER and pin to the neckline edge over the FACING. Stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam at the curves, turn the pieces right side out and press. Topstitch the seam allowances to the FACING. Attach the FACING to the ZIPPER tape.
- Serge the lower edge of the SLEEVE, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Form and secure the pleats on the SLEEVE cap. The pleat depths are directed towards the bottom of the SLEEVE. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, matching NOTCHES. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE.
- Cut a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge on the right side, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
