CUTTER'S MUST
- From Main Fabric 1:
- Center BACK PANEL upper part - 2 QTY
- Side BACK PANEL upper part - 2 QTY
- Back peplum – 2 QTY on fold
- Front peplum – 2 QTY
- Center FRONT PANEL upper left part - 1 QTY
- Center FRONT PANEL upper right part - 1 QTY
- Side FRONT PANEL upper part - 2 QTY
- Left lapel - 2 QTY
- Right lapel - 2 QTY
- COLLAR - 2 QTY
- From Main Fabric 2:
- Lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- Lower FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Left lapel - 1 QTY
- Right lapel - 1 QTY
- COLLAR - 1 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the COLLAR and lapel pieces.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Stitch the center seam of the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side and serge. Stitch the princess seams of the upper FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge.
- Stitch the darts on the lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, press depths towards the center. On the left lower BACK PANEL, cut 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both BACK PANEL pieces, fuse the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Serge the center edge of the BACK PANEL separately on each piece. Serge the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the center edge of the lower BACK PANEL from the upper edge to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit SEAM ALLOWANCE on the right part. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
- Attach the lapels to the COLLAR along the break line, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Place the COLLAR pieces with lapels right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, ends, and lapel edges. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, clip at curves. Turn the COLLAR right side out, shape and press.
- Place the COLLAR with the wrong side of the dress and attach the left part along the neckline edge to the center back, serge SEAM ALLOWANCES. Fold the left end to the right side and secure with the center edge of the FRONT PANEL. Insert the left side of the FRONT PANEL between the right FRONT PANEL and the COLLAR and stitch the remaining part of the COLLAR attachment seam from the center back to the waist. Serge SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Stitch the right side seam of the outer and inner peplums, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Place the peplums right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press. Form and secure the pleats according to the markings. The left pleat of the front peplum is formed freely.
- Stitch the right side seam of the lower part of the dress, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Place the peplum on the lower part of the dress, secure at the upper and side edges and continue to treat as one piece.
- Stitch the right side seam of the upper part of the dress, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the dress, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge.
- Serge the left side edges separately on the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Stitch the left side edges from the armhole to the upper NOTCH and from the lower NOTCH downwards, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, pressing the slit for the ZIPPER. Insert the ZIPPER.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide for armhole finishing. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch, fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press and hem with blind stitches.
