Relaxed Hooded Coat
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, relaxed coat featuring a generously draped hood, flattering curved hem, and practical welt pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile coat pattern is ideal for creating an elegant outer layer, suitable for:
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Elevated Everyday Wear: Perfect for adding a touch of sophistication to casual outfits.
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Transitional Seasons: An excellent choice for cooler spring or autumn days, offering comfortable warmth.
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Smart Casual Occasions: Easily dresses up or down for various social settings or professional environments.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Relaxed, slightly oversized fit, providing comfortable drape and movement.
Collar: Features a hood that drapes beautifully down the front, offering an open neckline.
Closure: Designed with an open front, allowing for effortless layering, with an optional hook-and-eye closure for versatility.
Sleeves: Full-length sleeves with a clean, tapered finish, set into a slightly dropped shoulder line.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets are seamlessly integrated into the front panels, providing practical storage.
Back: Clean back design with a central seam for subtle shaping.
Hem: Distinctive rounded, curved hemline that adds a soft, contemporary finish to the garment's lower edge.
Length: Falls to approximately mid-thigh, offering versatile coverage.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, particularly in constructing welt pockets, managing the draped collar, and applying the continuous decorative edging.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose soft, pliable coat fabrics that drape well to achieve the intended silhouette:
- Soft, pliable coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Hook-and-eye fastener
- Decorative trim (length specified on pattern pieces)
- Bias tape (length specified on pattern pieces)
- Lining fabric (for pockets)
- Fusible interfacing (for welts)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Hood — 2 pieces
- Trim strip — 2 pieces
- Welt — 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Welt — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the dart on the front. Press the depth downwards.
- Interface the welts with fusible interfacing. Mark the pocket placement. Interface the pocket opening. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong side in. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt. Attach the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitches should finish at the short marking lines. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch and serge the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the center back seam of the back. Serge the seam allowance and press to the left side.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the coat. Serge the seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch the hood seam. Serge the seam allowance and press to the left side. Attach the hood to the neckline. Serge the seam allowance.
- Stitch the darts on the sleeve cuff. Trim the depths with an overlocker. Attach the cuff to the sleeve. Serge the seam allowance and press towards the sleeve. Attach the sleeves to the armholes. Serge the seam allowance.
- Stitch the side seam simultaneously with the sleeve seam. Serge the seam allowance and press towards the back.
- Topstitch the decorative trim strip along the contour of the coat. Stitch the edges of the trim strip to form a ring. Fold in half lengthwise and press. Place on the right side of the coat and stitch along the contour. Spread the bias binding to two sides and place it over the seam. Stitch the bias binding. Turn the seam allowance and bias binding towards the main piece and topstitch, covering the seam allowance.
- Sew the hook-and-eye closure at the cross mark.
