Belted Fit-and-Flare Coat
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic fit-and-flare coat, defined by its tailored bodice, broad lapels, and a graceful flared skirt.
When To Wear
This elegant coat is a versatile staple, making it an excellent choice for:
- Occasion: Everyday Elegance: Perfect for elevating daily outfits with a touch of sophistication.
- Occasion: Professional Settings: a polished outer layer suitable for business casual or formal work environments.
- Occasion: Smart Casual Outings: An ideal choice for brunches, shopping, or cultural events during cooler weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a flattering fit-and-flare silhouette, with a fitted bodice and a generously flared skirt for graceful movement.
Collar & Lapel: Features a classic notched lapel collar, creating an elegant V-neckline when fastened.
Closure: Single-breasted front with a three-button closure, complemented by a wide self-fabric tie belt to cinch the waist.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves finished with tailored cuffs for a polished look.
Pockets: Practical and discreet inseam pockets are integrated into the side seams of the skirt.
Back: The back features tailored vertical seams and a horizontal waist seam, enhancing the fitted shape of the bodice.
Length: Elegant midi length, falling gracefully below the knee.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires proficient tailoring skills including precise collar and lapel construction, setting in sleeves, and full lining assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose elegant, medium-weight coating fabrics that offer structure and graceful drape:
- Coating fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (e.g., wool, wool blends, tweed)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Thin shoulder pads
- 3 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Central upper back – 2 pieces
- Side upper back – 2 pieces
- Back Yoke – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Central upper front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front — 2 pieces
- Front side — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Underlay – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Central upper back – 2 pieces
- Side upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold (cut according to main fabric piece)
- Central upper front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front — 2 pieces
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: upper collar, front facing, back neckline facing, underlay, cuff, garment hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the lower sleeve to the armhole of the side back, clip and press seam allowances open.
- Attach the side upper front to the upper sleeve, clipping the front seam allowance at the corner. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back yoke and the central upper front, press seam allowances open.
- Attach the upper sleeve with the side front to the back yoke and the central upper front, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch in one continuous seam from mark to mark the upper sleeve and the back yoke, and the lower sleeve and the back, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the lower sleeve edge and the side edge in one continuous seam, press seam allowances open.
- Mark the underlay attachment line on the lower pocket bag. Place the underlay on the pocket bag, right side down, and stitch. Fold the underlay up, align edges, and press. Attach the pocket bag with the underlay to the front side, attach the pocket bag to the lower front. Attach the front side to the lower, simultaneously stitching the pocket bags.
- Stitch the side seams of the lower back and front, press seam allowances open and serge. Stitch the upper and lower parts of the coat, press seam allowances upwards.
- Fold the cuff with the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch the cuff ends and the lower edge, trim seam allowances at corners, turn the cuff right side out, shape corners, press.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the front side upwards to the notch, which defines the end of the collar attachment. Attach the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge: in the fastening area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the seam strictly at the marked collar attachment line to the neckline. Turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the front facing. Press seam allowances open. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the lower collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press seam allowances open. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams. Serge the lower edge, press to the wrong side. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and attach the sleeves. Serge the side seams of the lower. Fold the lower lining edge twice by 1.5 cm and topstitch. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. The stitching should start and end at half the width of the main garment's hem allowance. Clip the seam allowance on the inner edge of the front facing at the beginning of the lining attachment. Fold the front facing seam allowance from the hemline to the clip inwards and hand stitch with blind stitches. Serge the lining attachment seam and press towards the lining. Hand stitch the garment hem with blind stitches. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge of the front and collar.
- Attach the lining to the cuffs. Turn the coat right side out.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.
