Pleated Gathered Front Dress with Sleeves

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Upper FRONT PANEL — 1 QTY
3. BACK PANEL insert — 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL insert — 1 QTY
5. Lower BACK PANEL — 2 QTY
6. Lower FRONT PANEL — 1 QTY on fold
7. SLEEVE — 2 QTY
8. Bow — 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY (cut according to upper pattern)
2. Upper FRONT PANEL — 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Stitch darts on the upper and lower BACK PANEL pieces. Trim the bulk with an overlocker and press towards the center back. Attach the BACK PANEL insert to the lower part, overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press upwards. Attach the upper part. Overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press downwards. Overcast the center back raw edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back raw edge from the ZIPPER mark downwards. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES, pressing the slit. Insert the ZIPPER.
2. Stitch darts on the lower FRONT PANEL. Press the bulk towards the center. Attach the FRONT PANEL insert to the lower part. Overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press upwards. Along the neckline raw edge of the FRONT PANEL, create arbitrary pleats and secure them. Along the lower raw edge of the upper FRONT PANEL between the triangular NOTCHES, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the upper FRONT PANEL to the insert. Overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press downwards.
3. Stitch the side raw edges. Overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES and press towards the back. Stitch the shoulder raw edges. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
4. Stitch darts on the upper LINING pieces. Stitch the shoulder and side raw edges of the LINING. Press open the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Overcast the lower raw edge. Place the LINING on the dress with right sides together and stitch the neckline. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES, clip corners, turn right side out and press. Align the edges of the LINING and the main fabric along the armhole raw edge, and then treat as one piece. Stitch the LINING to the ZIPPER tape. Attach the lower raw edge of the LINING into the seam of the upper part attachment.
5. Stitch the SLEEVE seam, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the back and overcast. Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning the NOTCHES. Press and overcast the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
6. Fold the bow piece right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening for turning. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the bow right side out and press. Hand stitch the opening closed. Cut a bridge piece 6 x 6 cm. Stitch along one side and turn. Place the bow into the bridge and sew to the dress, according to the technical sketch.
7. Overcast the lower raw edge of the dress and SLEEVE, press to the wrong side and topstitch.