Tailored Collarless Shaped Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a tailored, collarless jacket, distinguished by its shaped silhouette and functional front flap pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of occasions, providing a polished look for:
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Office & Business Meetings: a professional and smart choice for corporate environments.
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Semi-Formal Gatherings: Offers a chic and sophisticated layer for social events.
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Elevated Casual Wear: Pairs well with tailored trousers or jeans for a refined everyday look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with vertical princess seams and a defined horizontal waist seam, flaring gently to the hip.
Neckline: Features a clean, collarless gentle V-neck at the front opening, transitioning to a gracefully rounded back neckline.
Closure: a hidden front closure ensures a smooth, uninterrupted aesthetic.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves, complete with a functional vent detail at the cuff.
Pockets: Two rectangular flap pockets are strategically placed at the lower front, enhancing both style and utility.
Back: Artfully shaped with a center back seam and vertical princess seams, further defined by a horizontal seam at the natural waist.
Hem: Straight-cut at hip length, following the body's natural contours for a flattering finish.
Waist: Accentuated by a prominent horizontal seam that subtly defines the waist and creates a gentle, peplum-like effect below.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires precise tailoring techniques including seam matching, lining construction, and the creation of sleeve vents and flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting materials that offer structure and a refined drape to maintain the jacket's tailored form:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Thin shoulder pads
- Hidden closure (e.g., hooks & eyes or snaps)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve (upper) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (lower) – 2 pieces
- Back (lower) — 1 piece
- Front (lower) — 2 pieces
- Flap — 2 pieces
- Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the back neck facing and front facing.
- From lining fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (upper) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (lower) – 2 pieces
- Back (lower) — 1 piece
- Front (lower) — 2 pieces
- Flap — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neck facing, flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the back neckline, apply an additional fusible interfacing strip. Fuse the sleeve vent.
- Place the flap and lining right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, and press. Position the flap on the lower front according to the mark and secure.
- Stitch the dart on the center front. Press the dart depth towards the center. Stitch the princess seam on the front. Press the seam allowance towards the center. Attach the lower. Press the seam allowance open.
- Stitch the dart on the center back. Press the dart depth towards the center. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam allowance open. Attach the lower. Press the seam allowance open.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the lower and upper sleeve parts. Press open the sleeve elbow seam, clip the seam allowance at the corner, and press the vent. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing.
- Place the jacket and lining right sides together, inserting the closure, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch the lining along the front opening, neckline, and bottom of the jacket. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the lining to the main fabric at the waist seam. Close the technical opening.
