Cutting Plan
From main fabric:
- 1. Back - 2 pieces
- 2. Back insert - 1 piece
- 3. Front - 1 piece on fold
- 4. Collar stand - 2 pieces
- 5. Sleeve - 2 pieces
- 6. Bow - 1 piece
- 7. Bow strap - 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- 1. Front lining - 1 piece on fold
- 2. Back lining - 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Collar stand - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the upper collar stand.
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press darts towards the center back seam. Stitch darts on front pieces, press dart allowances upwards.
- Attach the back insert to the back. Serge/overlock seam allowances and press towards the back.
- Attach decorative piping along the front neckline.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back.
- Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge/overlock. Serge/overlock the left side seam allowances separately, stitch from the mark to the hem. Insert the zipper.
- Serge/overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, fold inwards and topstitch. Set the sleeve into the armhole.
- Stitch darts on the lining, stitch shoulder and right side seams. Serge/overlock the lower edge of the lining.
- Turn with lining in sequence: front neckline (decorative piping is between the front and lining), back neckline, lower part of the armhole. Press the lining allowance in the upper part of the armhole inwards and hand-stitch with blind stitches to the sleeve allowance.
- Prepare the decorative rouleau. Cut into 2 loops. Place collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and corners, inserting the loops. Trim corners and turn right side out. Attach the upper collar stand to the front and back neckline. Fold the allowance of the lower collar stand inwards and topstitch into the seam of the upper collar stand attachment. Fold the allowances of the upper and lower collar stands above the back neckline inwards and sew together with blind stitches.
- Fold the bow lengthwise along the line right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving a small opening. Trim corners, turn right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening and press. Serge/overlock the long sides of the bow strap, fold allowances inwards and topstitch. Wrap the bow with the strap and secure the strap allowances. Attach the bow to the collar stand.
- Serge/overlock the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hand-stitch with blind stitches. Sew on buttons.
