Long Fitted Stand Collar Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL (center) – QTY 2
• 2. BACK PANEL (side) – QTY 2
• 3. FRONT PANEL (center) – QTY 2
• 4. FRONT PANEL (side) – QTY 2
• 5. FRONT YOKE — QTY 2
• 7. BACK NECK FACING – QTY 1
• 8. FRONT FACING – QTY 2
• 5. SLEEVE (upper part) – QTY 2
• 6. SLEEVE (lower part) – QTY 2
• From lining fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL (center) – QTY 2
• 2. FRONT PANEL (center) – QTY 2
• 3. BACK PANEL (side) – QTY 2
• 4. FRONT PANEL (side) – QTY 2
• 5. FRONT YOKE — QTY 2
• 5. SLEEVE (upper part) – QTY 2
• 6. SLEEVE (lower part) – QTY 2
• 7. Pocket Bag — QTY 4
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• 1. FRONT PANEL (center) — QTY 2
• 2. FRONT FACING — QTY 2
• 3. BACK NECK FACING — QTY 1
• Also interface the armhole areas on the back, pocket opening, and hem of the garment.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pattern pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. On the BACK PANEL, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. Topstitch along the dart 0.5 cm from the seam. On the BACK PANEL, stitch the princess seams. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the center back seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCE open.
3. Attach the pocket bag to the center FRONT PANEL and side FRONT PANEL respectively. On the FRONT PANEL, stitch the princess seams, simultaneously stitching the pocket bag. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clipping the corner on the side FRONT PANEL. Press the pocket towards the center.
4. Attach the FRONT YOKE. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the yoke. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat. Clip and press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
6. Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press SEAM ALLOWANCE open. Stitch the front SLEEVE seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCE open. Set the SLEEVE into the armhole. Press the upper part of the sleeve cap towards the neckline. Topstitch along the sleeve cap, 5 cm from the shoulder seam. Attach shoulder pads.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the FRONT FACINGS and FACING. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
8. Attach the outer COLLAR stand to the coat neckline, and the inner COLLAR stand to the neckline of the FRONT FACINGS and FACING. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
9. Press up the hem allowance. Place the FRONT FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down. Attach the lower edge of the FRONT FACING to the hem allowance. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards. Pin the FRONT FACING and the upper part of the garment and stitch along the front edge and the COLLAR stand. Attach the lower edge of the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the FRONT FACING. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at COLLAR stand corners, turn right side out, and smooth out the seams.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Set in the SLEEVES. Attach the LINING to the FRONT FACINGS and FACING.
11. Attach the LINING to the hem of the garment. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
12. Topstitch along the front edge and the upper edge of the COLLAR stand. Fold back the side part of the pocket, and topstitch along the pocket opening line.
13. Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.