CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL upper part – 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL lower part – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL upper part – 1 QTY
- FRONT PANEL lower part – 1 QTY
- Waistband – 1 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- CUFF – 2 QTY
- Pocket SIDE PANEL — 2 QTY
- Pocket bag — 2 QTY
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also sew pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on the BACK PANEL pieces, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES with an overlock. Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANEL parts. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press to the left side.
- Form pleats on the FRONT PANEL (depths directed towards the side seams), secure them along the bottom edge.
- Place the pocket bag on the lower FRONT PANEL and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side and press. Place the lower FRONT PANEL on the SIDE PANEL and stitch the edges of the pocket bags. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE. Stitch the upper and lower FRONT PANEL parts. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCE and press downwards.
- Stitch the right shoulder seam. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCE towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Cut (if not pre-made) a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 5 cm. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the TRIM STRIP with the neckline edge on the right side and stitch. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Fold the TRIM STRIP to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam. Stitch and serge the left shoulder seam.
- Stitch the side seams. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES and press towards the BACK PANEL.
- Stitch the SLEEVE seam. Press and serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning the NOTCHES and easing the cap. Press and serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Along the lower edge of the SLEEVE, stitch with a loosely tensioned upper thread and gather.
- Stitch the CUFFS into a loop. Turn to the right side and fold in half lengthwise. Insert the CUFF into the SLEEVE and attach to the lower edge. Serge the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment. Press the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and stitch along the contour, leaving a small opening. Trim corners, turn the waistband right side out, and sew the opening closed. Place the waistband on the FRONT PANEL, aligning the centers, and attach to the side seams, so that the lower edge of the waistband overlaps the seam joining the upper and lower halves by 1 cm downwards.
