Fitted Guipure Collared Dress with Pleats

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK SKIRT HALF - 2 QTY
2. FRONT SKIRT HALF - 1 QTY
3. Middle FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
4. COLLAR stand - 1 QTY
• From guipure:
1. Upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
2. Upper FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. Upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
2. Upper FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
3. LINING for middle FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
4. COLLAR stand - 1 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. COLLAR stand - 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the COLLAR stand piece made from LINING fabric.
2. Stitch darts on the upper and lower BACK PANELs, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES to 1 cm, serge, and press towards the center seam. Stitch darts on the upper FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center of the piece. Process LINING pieces similarly.
3. Stitch shoulder seams on guipure pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch shoulder seams on LINING pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Serge the lower edges of the LINING. Attach the guipure COLLAR stand to the dress neckline, and the LINING COLLAR stand to the LINING neckline.
4. Attach the lower FRONT SKIRT HALF to the upper, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge.
5. Serge the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the ZIPPER mark to the slit mark. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, pressing the slit. Insert the ZIPPER. Topstitch the sides of the slit 0.1 cm from the fold.
6. On the lower FRONT SKIRT HALFs, create and secure pleats. Attach the lower FRONT SKIRT HALF to the upper, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge.
7. On the middle FRONT PANEL pieces, create and secure pleats, layer with LINING, and stitch the upper and lower edges. Turn the pieces right side out, straighten, and press. Place the middle panels onto the FRONT PANEL and secure along the side seams.
8. Layer the LINING with the dress right sides together and stitch the COLLAR stand edge. Stitch the armholes in two steps – first the FRONT PANEL, then the BACK PANEL. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, turn pieces right side out, and press. Secure the COLLAR stand attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES together.
9. Stitch the side seam of the dress and LINING in one seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Secure the LINING to the ZIPPER tape and to the attachment edges of the lower dress parts to the upper parts.
10. Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.