Sleeveless Notched Lapel Tie-Waist Dress
Discover a sophisticated women's dress pattern featuring a structured notched lapel, a unique square neckline insert, and a flattering tie-waist silhouette.
When To Wear:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or corporate events, offering a polished and authoritative look.
- Cocktail & Semi-Formal Occasions: Perfect for evening gatherings, networking events, or daytime parties where elegance is key.
- Versatile Day-to-Night Styling: Easily transitions from a professional daytime ensemble to a chic evening outfit with simple accessory changes.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted silhouette through the bodice and waist, gently tapering to a knee-length straight skirt.
Neckline & Collar: Features a sophisticated notched lapel design layered over a distinct square neckline bodice insert.
Sleeves: Sleeveless for a sleek and modern profile, suitable for layering or warm weather.
Waist: Defined by a chic, self-fabric tie belt that cinches the waist for a flattering shape.
Closure: Fastens with an invisible zipper discreetly placed in the side seam for a seamless finish.
Back: Includes a center back seam with bust and waist darts, and a functional back vent for ease of movement.
Length: Finishes elegantly at the knee.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves precise tailoring techniques such as constructing notched lapels, attaching facings, inserting an invisible zipper, and creating a back vent.
Fabric Recommendations
Select dress-weight fabrics with good drape and body to hold the structured elements:
- Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Invisible zipper
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center back - 2 qty
- 2. Side back - 2 qty
- 3. Center front – 1 qty
- 4. Side front – 2 qty
- 5. Collar - 2 qty
- 6. Lapel – 4 qty
- 7. Neckline facing – 1 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Collar – 1 qty
- 2. Lapel – 2 qty
- 3. Neckline facing – 1 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the lower collar, lapels, and facing with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the center back pieces. Press dart depths towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overlock.
- On both center back pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece, overlocking the vent simultaneously. Stitch the center back edge from the top edge to the vent edge. Clip the vent seam allowance corner on the right side. Press the center seam seam allowances, pressing the vent. Press the right side of the vent 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the vent seam allowances towards the left side and topstitch along the top with a machine stitch.
- Stitch the shoulder edges, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Place the neckline facing and the center front right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Clip the seam allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, and press.
- Place the upper and lower collar right sides together and stitch along the stand and notch line. Clip the seam near the “o” mark. Turn the collar out and press. Place the lapel pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and notch up to the mark. Clip the seam near the notch mark, turn the lapels out and press. Attach the upper and lower collar separately to the lapels along the roll line. Press seam allowances open.
- Place the finished collar with lapels onto the upper of the dress and stitch from the lower corner of the lapel to the “o-” mark. Then clip the upper collar, fold it back, and stitch only the lower collar into the neckline up to the “o-” mark on the other front. Clip the upper collar seam allowance and from the mark, stitch both COLLARs again.
- Stitch the front princess seams (the lapel is positioned between the pieces). Clip the seam allowances, press towards the side edge and overlock.
- Press the collar attachment seam allowances towards the collar. Turn under the open inner edge of the collar and topstitch into the collar attachment seam. Secure the collar and lapels along the roll line. Topstitch along the collar and lapel.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge on the right side, extending the tails, and stitch. Turn the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the hem. Insert the zipper between the marks.
- Overlock the dress hem seam allowance, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right side in, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Overlock the short side. Topstitch around the perimeter at 0.7 cm. Thread and secure the buckle on the overlock side of the belt.
