Pleated Back Pencil Skirt

Name: Pleated Back Pencil Skirt
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4285
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4285

A women's straight skirt with a shaped yoke instead of a waistband, a plain front and a back made of six panels whose seams open into pleats at the hem, plus an inverted pleat at the centre back. Invisible zipper at the centre back. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Pleated Back Pencil Skirt

When To Wear

At the office with a blouse or a fitted knit top, tucked in to show the yoke.
With a jacket from the same suiting for a two-piece outfit.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, close-fitting skirt; the front is cut in one piece.

Waist: No waistband. Interfaced front and back yokes, topstitched 0.7 cm along the yoke seam and finished inside with an inner yoke that is understitched and stitched in the ditch.

Back: Centre, middle and side panels on each side. Each panel seam has a pleat extension that is topstitched down in a shaped line and opens into a pleat at the hem; the centre back seam ends in an inverted pleat. Panel seams are topstitched 0.7 cm from the seam.

Closure: Invisible zipper in the centre back seam, with the inner yoke hand-sewn to the zipper tape.

Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up and blind-stitched by hand.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Five back seams with pleat extensions that must be topstitched exactly along the marked lines, an invisible zipper and a faced yoke.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (front and back yokes)
1 invisible zipper

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm, hem allowance – 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.

From main fabric:
- Center Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Middle Back Skirt – 2 pieces
- Back Side Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front Skirt – 1 piece
- Back Yoke – 4 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Back Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the yokes.
Stitch the Center Back Skirt to the Middle Back Skirt along the panel seam, including the pleat extension. Press the allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam, and topstitch the pleat extension onto the Center Back Skirt as shown in the technical drawing.
Stitch the Middle Back Skirt to the Back Side Skirt along the panel seam, including the pleat extension. Press the allowances towards the center and overlock. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam, and topstitch the pleat extension onto the Middle Back Skirt as shown in the technical drawing.
Overlock the center back edges separately, including the pleat extensions. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the corner of the pleat extension and then the vertical edge of the extension. Press the seam allowances open, pressing back the zipper opening allowances; press the pleat extension open to form an inverted pleat. Topstitch the pleat extension onto the back as shown in the technical drawing. Insert the invisible zipper.
Stitch the outer Back Yokes to the back skirt, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the outer Front Yoke to the Front Skirt, press seam allowances upwards and topstitch 0.7 cm from the seam.
Stitch the side seams, press the allowances open and overlock.
Stitch the side seams of the inner yokes. Overlock the lower edge. Place the inner yoke on the skirt right sides together and stitch along the top edge. Understitch the allowances onto the inner yoke 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the inner yoke to the wrong side and press. Turn under the center back edges of the inner yoke and hand-sew them to the zipper tape. Stitch in the ditch of the outer yoke seam to secure the inner yoke.
Overlock the bottom edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.