Pleated Front Collared Short Sleeve Tunic

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: Blouse fabric made of natural or blended fibers (cotton, viscose, polyester). Also needed: fusible interfacing, decorative trim (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece), 12 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Front insert - 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
  • Placket - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Lower collar stand – 1 piece
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve tab – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar stand right side out and press.
3. Stitch the darts on the front pieces. Press the dart allowances upwards. Stitch the darts on the back pieces. Press the dart allowances towards the center seam. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock and press the allowances.
4. Topstitch decorative trim onto the front insert according to the markings. Form and secure the pleats on the front piece (pleat depths directed towards the center). Stitch the front insert to the front piece, clipping the piece at the corner. Press the allowances towards the insert, overlock.
5. Press the plackets in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the placket to the front piece, press the allowances towards the placket. Fold under the raw edge of the inner placket and topstitch into the attachment seam.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
7. Stitch the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the lower collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper collar stand. Topstitch along the collar stand and collar 0.1 cm from the edge.
8. Place the sleeve tab right sides together and stitch the long and short sides. Trim the allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and press. Overlock the buttonhole. Stitch the sleeve tab to the wrong side of the sleeve according to the markings. Sew a button to this spot on the right side.
9. Stitch the sleeves into the open armholes, press and overlock the allowances. Stitch the sleeve seam and side seam in one continuous line, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
10. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
11. Overlock the buttonholes on the right front placket, and sew buttons onto the left front placket.