Tailored Collared Single Button Jacket
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a fitted, single-button jacket featuring a classic collar, short sleeves, and mock welt pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is perfect for adding a touch of polish to various outfits, making it suitable for:
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Business Casual Settings: Layer over blouses or dresses for a professional yet relaxed look.
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Smart Everyday Wear: Elevate casual ensembles like jeans or shorts for a refined style.
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Evening & Event Styling: Pair with skirts or tailored trousers for a sophisticated outfit.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted, contemporary silhouette that gently follows the body lines, with shaping seams for a tailored fit.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic V-neck opening framed by a collar.
Closure: a single button closure at the center front cinches the jacket at the waist.
Sleeves: Short, cap sleeves offer a light and modern feel, perfect for warmer weather or layering.
Pockets: Mock welt pockets are integrated into the front panels, adding a refined detail.
Back: Designed with princess seams and a center back seam for elegant shaping and a flattering fit.
Hem: The front hem features a stylish angled cut, creating a visually interesting detail, while the back hem is straight.
Length: Cropped to hip-length, designed to sit neatly at the natural waist or just below, enhancing the body's proportions.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires skills in tailoring, including collar and lapel construction, setting in welt pockets, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Opt for fabrics with a slight structure and good drape to best showcase the tailored details:
- Thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 1 button
- Small shoulder pads
- Sleeve head wadding
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Collar - 2 pieces on fold
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket facing - 4 pieces
- Pocket underlay - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining pieces for the center back and front are cut by subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing, respectively. From fusible interlining: center front, front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, pocket facing, jacket hem allowance.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Cut the center front piece along the pocket line, stopping 1.5 cm before the cross mark. Even out the dart sides. Trim the seam allowance between the round marks. Stitch the dart and trim the bulk. Press open the bust dart. Secure the pocket opening with a stay tape or basting. Stitch and press open the front princess seams, pressing allowances open.
- Mark the pocket placement. Fold pocket facings in half with wrong sides together and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the facings. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to the pocket opening. Stitch the facings to the front piece. The ends of the stitching should stop at the parallel pocket marking lines. Check the accuracy of the stitching from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening area on the side front piece. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the facings through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Place the pocket underlay on the facings from the wrong side and topstitch into the facing attachment seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Fold collars with right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar right side out, shape and press. Attach the collar to the neckline.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Place the front facings and back neckline facing right sides together with the front piece and stitch the front edge, neckline, and lower corner, stopping 1.5 cm before the edge of the front facing. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten seams.
- Fold the sleeve with the lining right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the sleeve right side out. Attach a small sleeve head to the sleeve from the wrong side. Secure the sleeve to the lining at the cap. Set the sleeves into the armholes.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing.
- Finish the armhole in two steps: first the front, then the back. Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket through the opening in the side seam. Stitch the opening closed.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole, and on the left front, sew on a button.
- Sew shoulder pads to the lining. They can be covered with fabric beforehand.
