Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: gabardine. Also needed: fusible interfacing; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 5 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3.5 cm, pocket bag edges – 2 cm, lining hem allowance 2 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Upper front part – 4 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 2 pieces
  • Upper collar – 1 piece
  • Under collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Bow – 1 piece
  • Belt loop – 1 piece
  • Welt – 2 pieces
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Back – 1 piece with fold
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing
  • Welt
  • Upper collar
  • Bow
  • Front
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces

ATTENTION: Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns (there is a fold on the lining) with the front facing deducted.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold the welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the side edges. Turn the welt right side out and press. Topstitch along the contour 1 cm from the edge. Mark a line on the welt, defining the finished width of the welt. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt, aligning the pieces in the center. Place the welt face down on the right side of the front, aligning with the marked line. Stitch the welt. Stitch the large pocket bag to the other pocket marking line. Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts to the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the seam allowances. Stitch the pocket bag edges, securing the pocket corners. Mark a line on the welt 5.5 cm from the fold. Fold the welt along the marked line. Secure the welt to the front with 2-3 stitches at the four corners.
3. Stitch the bust dart on the front. Press the dart upwards. On the back, create and stitch the inverted pleat according to the markings. Press the piece.
4. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the back and front. Press the seam allowances open and overcast.
5. Stitch the upper back and front parts together in pairs. Press the seams open. Fold the upper parts right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seams, turn the pieces right side out and press.
6. Fold the bow in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch three sides, leaving an opening in the middle of the long side for turning. Turn the piece right side out and press. Stitch the opening closed. Topstitch along the long sides 1 cm from the edge.
7. Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long side. Turn the piece right side out and press, centering the seam. Topstitch along the long sides 1 cm from the fold.
8. On the right side of the upper collar, stitch the bow, aligning the marked lines. Stitch the belt loop to the upper collar, aligning the upper and lower edges. Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the back and front. Clip and press the seams open.
9. Fold the under collar with the collar stand right sides together. Insert the vertical edge of the upper front part between them, aligning the pieces along the lower edge. Stitch the pieces. Press the seam towards the collar stand. Secure the under collar to the upper back and front parts along the lower edge.
10. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Double fold the lining hem allowance by 1 cm and topstitch. Stitch the lining to the front facings. Press the seam allowances towards the lining and overcast. Stitch the under collar to the lining and front facing. Press the seam towards the lining.
11. Stitch and press the elbow seam towards the upper sleeve part. Topstitch 1 cm from the seam. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armholes, easing the sleeve at the top of the cap and aligning the notches. Insert the shoulder pads.
12. Press and overcast the hem allowance. Fold the front facing with the lining and under collar right sides together with the front, pin and stitch the front edge and the upper edge of the collar. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Turn the coat right side out, straighten and press the seams. Topstitch along the collar attachment seam to the neckline.
13. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge of the front and collar: from the bottom of the garment to the upper corner of the collar, then along the upper edge of the collar, interrupt the stitching under the belt loop, move the coat and continue stitching to the hemline. Topstitch along the collar along the attachment seam 1 cm from the seam. The stitching is done in 2 steps: up to the attachment seam of the upper front part, then interrupt the stitching and continue stitching all the way to the edge of the front.
14. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out.
15. Hand stitch the hem allowance with blind stitches. On the right front, overcast the buttonholes, on the left front, sew on the buttons.
16. Fold the belt pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening in the middle, 10-15 cm long, for turning. Turn the belt right side out, turn in the seam allowances of the unstitched section and hand stitch. Topstitch 1 cm from the edge around the perimeter of the belt. On the belt, overcast the buttonholes, on the back, sew on the buttons. Fasten the belt.