Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; lining; raglan shoulder pads; decorative hook-and-eye closure.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). On the front panel and placket patterns, seam allowances of 1 cm are given along the inner contour of the opening, regardless of whether the pattern set is ordered with or without seam allowances.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front panel – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Placket – 4 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Loop – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front panel – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
Also, the hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeves is interfaced. ATTENTION: The front and back pieces of the lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the front panel, stitch the darts and press them upwards.
- Pocket construction: When drafting seam allowances independently, trim the corners of the small pocket bag strictly along the transverse marks. Fold the placket pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the inner contour. Clip the allowances, turn the pieces right side out, and press. Cut out the pocket opening on the front panel. Carefully clip the allowances along the curved edge, stopping 2-3 mm before the placket attachment line. Attach the plackets to the front panel, aligning the notches. Press the seams away from the center of the pocket. On the small pocket bag, carefully clip the allowances along the curved edge, stopping 2-3 mm before the attachment line. Place the small pocket bag over the plackets, right side down, and stitch to the plackets: along the lower semicircle strictly between the transverse notches. Fold the pocket bag down and press. Attach the upper pocket bag to the plackets: along the upper semicircle strictly between the transverse notches. Stitch the outer edge of the pocket bags.
- Attach the back sleeve part to the back, press seams open. Attach the front sleeve part to the front panel, press seams open. Stitch the upper edges of the sleeves. Press seams open. Stitch the lower edges of the sleeves and side edges with one continuous seam. Press seams open.
- Stitch the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seams open.
- Attach the upper collar to the back and front neckline, the lower collar to the facing and front facing neckline. Press seams open.
- Fold the front facings to the front panel right sides together and stitch the front edge and collar. Trim the allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and shape. Press the collar and front edges. Stitch a reinforcing seam along the collar attachment seam to the neckline. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an opening in the lower seam of the right sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim the corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Stitch the lining to the hem of the garment and sleeves. Turn the garment right side out through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technical opening closed.
- Fold the loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn the loop right side out, press, and cut into 2 pieces. Thread one end of the loop through the closure and topstitch. Adjust the length of the loops according to the position of the closure. Topstitch the second end of the loop to the collar according to the technical drawing.
