Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm; slit allowance – 6 cm; sleeve hem allowance – 1.5 cm; other seams 1 cm; ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facings, front neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press darts towards the center of the piece.
- On the left back piece, along the vertical edge of the slit, trim 5 cm. On both back pieces, on the wrong side, fuse interfacing to the slit. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left piece along the slit fold line; on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Overlock the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the fastener mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- On the front piece, along the dart edge from the mark to the neckline line, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the dart. Press the dart towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams. Overlock seams and press towards the back.
- Stitch the shoulder seam of the facings. Overlock the seam and press towards the front. Overlock the outer edge of the facings. Place the dress and facing right sides together, aligning the neckline edges. Before reaching 5 mm from the edges of the concealed fastener, fold back the facing and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam at curves, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
- Overlock the sleeve hem. Fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
- Overlock the dress hem allowance and press inwards. Hem with blind stitches. The dress is recommended to be worn with a belt.
