Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane. Also needed: contrasting satin fabric for the collar, concealed zipper, thin fusible interlining, bias tape.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part left – 1 piece
- Upper front part right – 1 piece
- Lower front part - 1 piece
- From contrasting fabric:
- Collar - 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Collar — 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the collar with fusible interlining.
- Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center seam on the upper and lower back parts. Overcast the seam and press it to the left side. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press the seam downwards and overcast.
- Stitch darts on the front pieces. On the upper front parts, trim the dart depth and overcast. Press darts towards the center front.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collars right sides together and stitch the outer edge of the collar. Turn the collar right side out and press. Clip the allowance near the round mark. Stitch the lower collar into the neckline of the left front, back, and the section of the right front from the shoulder seam to the round mark. Press allowances towards the collar. Fold the allowance of the upper collar inwards and topstitch into the seam. Stitch the collar section from the round mark to the corner into the neckline of the right front (upper and lower collars are stitched together).
- Fold the end of the collar at the left front part near the mark and topstitch onto the left front part (creating an overlap). Stitch the left and right front parts. Overcast the allowance, press towards the right part and topstitch onto the right front part under the collar.
- Cut (if not ready-made) bias tape 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length + 5cm. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the bias tape with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Press allowances downwards and overcast.
- Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the bottom. Insert the concealed zipper between the marks. Place bar tacks at the side seam at armhole level.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
