Fitted Panel Dress with Contrasting Collar

Name: Fitted Panel Dress with Contrasting Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4240
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4240

A fitted knee-length women's dress with cut-on cap sleeves, a crossover front under a wide contrast satin collar and a horizontal seam under the bust. A concealed zipper closes the left side seam. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres with added elastane.

Tech. Description

Fitted Panel Dress with Contrasting Collar

A fitted knee-length women's dress with cut-on cap sleeves, a crossover front under a wide contrast satin collar and a horizontal seam under the bust. A concealed zipper closes the left side seam.

When To Wear

To the office in spring and summer, with a jacket over it on cooler days.
To daytime receptions and dinners, where the satin collar is the only trim the dress needs.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by vertical darts on the front and back below the bust seam and by darts on the upper front.

Length: Knee length, straight skirt.

Collar: Wide two-layer collar in contrast satin, interfaced, running around the back neck and down the crossover front; its left end is folded and topstitched onto the left front to form the overlap.

Front: Asymmetric upper front cut as separate left and right pieces that cross under the collar, joined to a one-piece lower front.

Sleeves: Short cap sleeves cut in one with the bodice; armholes finished with a folded bias strip turned to the inside and topstitched.

Closure: Concealed zipper in the left side seam, with bar tacks at armhole level.

Back: Centre back seam through both the upper and lower back, a horizontal seam at the same level as the front, and darts.

Finishing: Seams overlocked; hem turned up and sewn by hand with blind stitches.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Setting the collar into an asymmetric neckline in stages, the crossover front, bias-bound armholes and a concealed zipper.

Fabric Recommendations

Dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres with added elastane. Contrast satin for the collar.

Additional Supplies

Contrast satin for the collar
Concealed zipper
Thin fusible interfacing (collar)
Bias tape, or bias strips 4 cm wide cut from the fabric (armholes)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side!

From main fabric:
- Upper back - 2 pieces
- Lower back - 2 pieces
- Upper front left – 1 piece
- Upper front right – 1 piece
- Lower front - 1 piece
From contrasting fabric:
- Collar - 2 pieces
From fusible interlining:
- Collar — 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Fuse the collar with fusible interlining.
Stitch darts on the back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center seam on the upper and lower back parts. Overlock the seam and press it to the left side. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press the seam downwards and overlock.
Stitch darts on the front pieces. On the upper front parts, trim the dart depth and overlock. Press darts towards the center front.
Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
Fold collars right sides together and stitch the outer edge of the collar. Turn the collar right side out and press. Clip the allowance near the round mark. Stitch the lower collar into the neckline of the left front, back, and the section of the right front from the shoulder seam to the round mark. Press allowances towards the collar. Fold the allowance of the upper collar inwards and topstitch into the seam. Stitch the collar section from the round mark to the corner into the neckline of the right front (upper and lower collars are stitched together).
Fold the end of the collar at the left front near the mark and topstitch onto the left front (creating an overlap). Stitch the left and right front parts. Overlock the allowance, press towards the right and topstitch onto the right front under the collar.
Cut (if not ready-made) bias tape 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length + 5cm. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the bias tape with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
Stitch the upper and lower front parts. Press allowances downwards and overlock.
Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the bottom. Insert the concealed zipper between the marks. Place bar tacks at the side seam at armhole level.
Overlock the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.