Jacket with Pleated Front Overlay and Peplum

Name: Jacket with Pleated Front Overlay and Peplum
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4233
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4233

A fitted, waist-length women's jacket with a stand collar, curved double-layer front panels pleated into the neckline, and a pleated peplum set into the waist seam. Long set-in sleeves, edge-to-edge front fastened with hooks and eyes, fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: lightweight suiting in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Jacket with Pleated Front Overlay and Peplum

When To Wear

To the office over a dress or with a narrow skirt or trousers.
In spring and autumn as a light lined jacket.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting through the bodice, flaring out below the waist into the peplum.

Length: Peplum ends at the hip.

Collar: Stand collar cut in two layers, joined at the front edges.

Front: Princess seams; a curved decorative panel cut double sits on top of each front, its rounded edge left free, its neckline edge folded into five pleats.

Closure: Edge-to-edge front with 5 hooks and eyes.

Sleeves: Long, one-piece set-in sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Back: Princess seams, darts and a centre back seam.

Waist: Peplum cut in one piece on the fold, pleated at the top and sewn in between the jacket and the lining.

Lining: Full lining of the body and sleeves, attached to the front facings and back neck facing.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Layered pleated front panels inserted into princess seams, a two-layer stand collar, a fully lined jacket bagged out through the sleeve seam, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Fabric Recommendations

Lightweight suiting in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, collar stand, sleeve hem allowances)
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads
5 hooks and eyes

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Collar stand — 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Decorative front – 4 pieces
- Peplum — 1 piece on fold
From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces (cut according to main fabric patterns)
- Side front — 2 pieces (cut according to main fabric patterns)
- Sleeve – 2 pieces (cut according to main fabric patterns)
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front
- Back neckline facing
- Sleeve hem allowance
- Front facing
- Collar stand

Sewing Instructions

Interface pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the back neckline and sleeve hem allowance.
On the back, stitch darts, press allowances towards the center. On the back, stitch princess seams. Press allowances open. Stitch center back seam. Press allowance open.
Fold decorative front pieces right sides together and stitch along the free rounded edge between the circular marks. Clip the allowance at the mark. Turn pieces right side out. Stitch the front princess seam, inserting the decorative front. Align neckline edges (the extended neckline edge remains free). Fold the free of the neckline into five pleats and secure with a stitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowance towards the back. Set in the sleeve into the armhole according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline. Press allowances open.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and neckline facing. Press allowances open. Attach lining to front facings and neckline facing. Attach the inner collar stand to the neckline. Press allowance open.
Fold pleats on the peplum. Secure them with a stitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch the edges of the peplum. Turn right side out.
Fold the garment right sides together and stitch along the front edge and collar stand. Stitch the bottom edge of the main fabric and lining, inserting the peplum between them. Turn the jacket right side out, straighten seams. Through the opening in the sleeve, secure the stitching seams of the outer and inner collar stand. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Close the opening.
Sew on hooks and eyes.