Pleated Belted Silk Shirtdress

Name: Pleated Belted Silk Shirtdress
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4230
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4230

A sleeveless women's shirt dress above the knee, with a band collar, a stitched-pleat front panel on each side of a six-button placket and a gathered skirt on an elasticated waist seam. A tie belt runs through two belt loops. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fine silk or silky fabrics with good drape, in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Pleated Belted Silk Shirtdress

When To Wear

Warm-weather days and summer events, belted at the waist.
Office wear in summer with a light jacket or cardigan over it.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a gathered, flared skirt.

Length: Above the knee.

Collar: Band collar (stand), interfaced.

Sleeves: Sleeveless; armholes finished with a 4 cm bias binding turned to the inside and topstitched.

Front: Centre front panels with narrow stitched pleats facing the side seams, a cut-on placket with six buttons, and side front pieces joined with a clipped corner.

Back: Upper back in one piece; skirt back gathered into the waist seam.

Waist: The gathered skirt is joined to the bodice and 1 cm elastic, cut to the waist measurement, is stitched under stretch to the seam allowance.

Finishing: Hem turned up 2 cm and topstitched; two belt loops at the side seams; a tie belt cut on the fold.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Stitched pleats, a cut-on placket, a band collar, bias-bound armholes and a gathered, elasticated waist in fluid fabric.

Fabric Recommendations

Fine silk or silky fabrics with good drape, in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

6 buttons
Fusible interfacing (collar stand, cut-on placket)
Elastic, 1 cm wide

Cutter's Must

Seam allowances: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the back and front – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Upper back – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center front - 2 pieces
- Lower front – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Belt loop - 1 piece
- Belt - 1 piece on fold
From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand
- Integrated placket

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Interface the collar stand piece and the integrated placket on the center front with fusible interfacing.
Form and stitch the pleats on the center front. The depths are directed towards the side edge.
Press the placket edge on the center front to the wrong side by 1 cm. Fold the integrated placket along the placket line to the right side and stitch the upper corner. Clip the allowance at the mark, turn the placket to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the placket to the front along the inner fold.
Stitch the side front to the center front, clipping at the corner, press allowances upwards and towards the side edge and overlock.
On the right placket, make buttonholes, on the left placket, sew on buttons. Overlap the front pieces, secure at the bottom edge and then treat as one piece.
Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end the stitching at the marked seam line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Clip allowances, turn the collar stand to the right side, press.
Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the raw longitudinal edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the seam.
Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch, clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece, press.
Stitch the side edges of the upper. Press allowances towards the back and overlock.
Stitch the side edges of the lower. Press allowances towards the back and overlock. Along the upper edge, make a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the length of the lower edge of the upper. Stitch the lower to the upper, press allowances and overlock.
Cut a piece of elastic tape equal to the waist circumference and topstitch it, stretching, to the seam allowance of the upper and lower parts.
Overlock the bottom of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
Overlock one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 2 pieces. Sew the belt loops at the waist on the side seams.
Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the belt to the right side, press. Close the opening.