Fitted Button Front Shirt Dress
A knee-length women's shirt dress fitted with princess seams, with a half placket, a shirt collar on a stand and double-layer yokes on the front and back. Buttoned flaps sit in the front princess seams and the short sleeves have turn-up cuffs with a button.
When To Wear
- Office and everyday wear in spring and summer; recommended with a belt.
- With flat shoes or low heels for daytime.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams on the front and back.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: Shirt collar with pointed ends on a separate stand, buttoned at the stand.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves, eased at the cap, with turn-up cuffs fastened by one button each.
Front: Half placket to below the bust, right placket over left, six buttons plus one on the stand. Double-layer front yokes with free lower edges are laid over the bodice.
Pockets: Shaped decorative flaps with a button, stitched into the front princess seams at hip level.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; a double-layer yoke with a pointed lower edge and a button at the centre.
Finishing: Hem turned up 2 cm and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A half placket with clipped corners, a collar on a stand, lined yokes, flaps set into seams and twelve buttonholes.
Fabric Recommendations
Fine dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (placket, flaps, collar stand, collar, cuffs)
- 12 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance - 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 1 piece
- Front yoke – 4 pieces
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overlock.
- Place back yokes right sides together and stitch the lower edge. Clip allowances, turn yoke right side out, press. Make a buttonhole. Place the yoke on the back and secure it along the neckline, armholes, and shoulder edges.
- Press plackets in half lengthwise, right side out. Make buttonholes on the right placket. On the front, make diagonal cuts at the corners, stopping 1 mm before the seam line. Stitch the outer parts of the plackets to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold under the raw edges of the inner plackets and topstitch into the attachment seam. Place the right placket over the left and stitch from the wrong side to the lower edge of the opening. Overlock allowances.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim corner allowances of the flaps and turn right side out. Shape seams and press. Make buttonholes.
- Stitch the front princess seams, inserting the flaps, press allowances towards the center and overlock.
- Place front yokes right sides together and stitch the lower and front edges. Trim allowances at the corner, turn yokes right side out, press. Place the yokes on the front and secure them along the neckline, armholes, and shoulder edges.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press side seam allowances towards the back and overlock. Press shoulder seam allowances open and overlock.
- Place the upper collar with the undercollar right sides together. Stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Trim seams. Turn collar right side out, shape and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align notches and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the stand. Turn the prepared collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the outer collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowances and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the cap. Press allowances and overlock.
- Stitch cuffs into a loop, press allowances open. Place cuffs in pairs right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Turn right side out, shape, press. Make a buttonhole. Insert the cuff into the sleeve and stitch to the lower edge. Overlock allowances. Turn cuff right side out.
- Overlock the lower edge of the garment. Press up the hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make a buttonhole on the right side of the collar stand. Sew buttons according to all buttonholes.
Tip: The dress is recommended to be worn with a belt.
