Double-Breasted Shawl Collar Pencil Dress
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sophisticated double-breasted pencil dress, distinguished by its unique pleated shawl collar and tailored silhouette.
When To Wear
This elegant dress is a versatile choice for various settings, making it perfect for:
- Professional Environments: Its sharp tailoring and classic appeal make it ideal for office wear, business meetings, and professional events.
- Cocktail & Evening Affairs: The refined design, especially the distinctive collar, elevates it for semi-formal gatherings, dinners, and cocktail parties.
- Special Occasions: a polished option for luncheons, receptions, or other celebrations where a sophisticated and distinguished look is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted pencil dress silhouette, designed to fall gracefully to the knee.
Neckline & Collar: Features a prominent shawl collar with an intricate pleated detail at the front opening, creating a distinctive and elegant neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front closure adorned with two columns of five buttons each, for a total of 10 buttons.
Sleeves: Elbow-length set-in sleeves finished with wide, turn-back cuffs for a polished touch.
Waist: Carefully shaped through the waist for a flattering, fitted appearance.
Back: Includes a clean center back seam, a concealed zipper for seamless closure, and a practical kick pleat for ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires attention to detail for the complex shawl collar construction, precise double-breasted button placement, invisible zipper insertion, and creation of a neat back vent.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured yet pliable fabrics that hold their shape well and offer a refined drape:
- Thin, pliable suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Concealed zipper
- Fusible interfacing
- 10 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm, slit allowance – 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Markings on the patterns are on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Collar right – 2 pieces
- Collar left – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to facing and cuff pieces.
- Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center seam and overlock.
- On the left lower back piece, along the vertical edge of the slit, trim 5 cm. On both lower back pieces, fuse interfacing to the slit on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left piece along the slit fold line, on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Overlock the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the fastener mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the invisible zipper.
- Stitch collar pieces along the outer edge. Clip allowances, turn collar to the right side, straighten, press. Fold and secure pleats according to markings.
- Overlock the lower edge of the front lining. Place the front lining with the center front piece, insert the collar between them and stitch the neckline. Clip allowances at curves, turn lining to the wrong side, secure along edges with the main piece and continue to treat as one piece.
- Overlap the right center front piece onto the left and secure along the princess seams. Stitch front princess seams, press allowances towards the side seam and overlock.
- Overlock the outer edge of the back neckline facings. Place the facing with the neckline right sides together. Without reaching 5 mm from the edges of the invisible fastener, fold back the facing and pin to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the back neckline edge, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip allowances at curves. Turn facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Fold under the center edge of the facing and attach to the zipper tape.
- Stitch shoulder seams, inserting the front piece between the back and back facing. Press allowances, overlock. Turn facing to the wrong side.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch sleeve seam. Press allowances and overlock. Set sleeves into armholes, aligning notches and easing at the cap. Press allowances and overlock.
- Fold cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch ends from fold to mark. Trim allowances at corner, clip at mark. Form cuff into a loop and stitch sections from mark to edge. Turn cuff to the right side, straighten, press. Insert cuff into sleeve, align cuff seam with mark and attach to the lower edge. Overlock allowances. Turn cuff to the right side.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Attach the slit allowance to the hem. Tip: The dress can also be worn with a belt.
