Jacket with Decorative Front Placket

Name: Jacket with Decorative Front Placket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4223
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4223

A women's fitted, lined jacket ending a little below the waist, with a wide horizontal inset at the waist that fastens with three buttons. Pleats on the upper front, a folded decorative band along the V-neck front edges and two-piece sleeves with gathered caps. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: thin suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Jacket with Decorative Front Placket

When To Wear

At the office over a blouse or fine knit, with trousers or a straight skirt.
In spring and autumn as a light tailored layer over a dress.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by the waist inset, front pleats, back darts and back princess seams.

Length: Short, ending a little below the waist, with a lower front and lower back band under the waist inset.

Neckline: Deep V-neck. A decorative band, folded lengthwise and closed at the top end, is stitched to the front edges and stands up along the neckline; it is sewn in between the jacket and the front facing.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve, elbow seam and front seam) with gathered sleeve caps; shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Front: Upper centre front with pleats stitched at the markings and pressed towards the centre, a front inset at the waist and a lower front.

Closure: Three buttons on the waist inset; buttonholes on the right front.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams with darts, a back inset at the waist and a lower back.

Lining: Full lining including sleeves; front and back lining cut from the main pieces minus the front facing and back neck facing.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. Gathered sleeve caps with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, a decorative band set between the front and facing, a bagged lining turned through the sleeve seam and matching horizontal seams at the waist.

Fabric Recommendations

Thin suiting fabric in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neck facing, decorative bands, sleeve hem allowances)
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads
3 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Note: Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facing respectively.

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 1 piece
- Lower Back – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Decorative Edge Facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 1 piece
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 1 piece
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front
- Back Neckline Facing
- Sleeve hem allowance
- Center Front Facing
- Decorative Edge Facing

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the pieces listed above, including the back neckline and the sleeve hem allowance.
On the back, stitch the darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back and press. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
On the Center Front, stitch the pleats at the markings. Press them towards the center.
Stitch the Front Inset and Back Inset to the front and back. Stitch on the Lower Front and Lower Back. Press the allowances open.
Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
Fold each Decorative Edge Facing in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch across the upper end. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the Decorative Edge Facing to the front edge of the jacket.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Along the sleeve cap edge, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Sew in the shoulder pads and attach the sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press the allowances open. Stitch the lining to the facings.
Place the Center Front Facing on the front, right sides together (the Decorative Edge Facing lies between them), pin and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the fronts strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim allowances at corners. Turn the fronts right side out and straighten the seams. Press the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side. Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Sew up the opening.
On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.