Tailored Jacket with Flounced Lapels
Introducing a sophisticated women's tailored jacket pattern, distinguished by a classic collar, flounced lapels and a fitted silhouette.
When To Wear:
-
Professional Settings: Ideal for adding a polished and stylish touch to office wear or business meetings.
-
Semi-Formal Events: Perfect for dinners, presentations, or gatherings where a chic yet comfortable outer layer is desired.
-
Everyday Elegance: Elevate casual outfits with its distinctive design, offering a versatile piece for various occasions.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, fitted silhouette creating a sharp and elegant profile.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic collar and flounced lapels.
Front Detail: a distinctive cascading flounced lapel extends down the front opening, adding a dynamic and elegant touch.
Pockets: Functional flap welt pockets are integrated at the lower front, blending practicality with style.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves, meticulously shaped for a comfortable and tailored fit.
Back: a clean, structured back with vertical seams for shaping.
Hem: a straight, hip-length hemline, providing a modern and versatile finish.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires proficient tailoring skills including precise construction of lapels, two-piece sleeves, flap welt pockets, and working with lining and fusible interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose a refined suiting fabric with good drape and structure to achieve the intended tailored look:
- Thin suiting fabric made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 4 hooks and eyes
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom 4 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Welt – 4 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: center front, front facing, back neckline facing, sleeve hem, flap, welt, upper collar.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse the back neckline and the pocket opening on the center front piece.
- On the back, stitch the princess seams. Press seams open. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam open.
- Attach the yoke to the front. Press seam allowances towards the center. On the front, stitch the princess seams. Press seam allowances towards the center.
- Fold the flaps right sides together, stitch, trim at the folds, and turn right side out. Fold the welts in half lengthwise right sides together and press. Attach the lower welt to the seam allowance of the center front piece. Attach the upper welt with the flap to the lower edge of the side piece. Cut open the pocket opening on the center piece. Turn the facings and flap right side out and press. Attach the large pocket bag to the seam allowance of the upper welt, and the small one to the lower. Stitch the pocket bags. Secure the corner with a double stitch.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Fold the decorative lapel pieces right sides together and stitch along the lower and outer edge up to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn the lapels right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collars to the decorative lapels along the break line edges. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down. Insert the decorative lapels and collar between them. Pin and stitch along the lapel and neckline.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve and the vent corners on the lower and upper sleeve pieces. Press open the elbow seam of the sleeve, make a notch, and press the vent. Stitch a diagonal securing stitch along the sleeve vent. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam. Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Attach shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
- Press up the jacket hem. Attach the lining to the jacket hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front, sew on hooks, and on the left front, sew on eyes.
- Sew buttons onto the vent.
