Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: lining fabric; concealed zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3 cm; other allowances – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Central lower back part - 2 pieces
- Side lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Front insert - 1 piece
- Central lower front part - 1 piece
- Side lower front part - 2 pieces
- Peplum – 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Front lining – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- On the upper back and front pieces, stitch the waist darts, press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the upper darts 2 cm from the upper edge. Press the dart folds towards the center.
- Attach the insert to the front, press the allowances. Press the front along the marked lines, secure at the upper and lower edges.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the upper part of the garment. Press the allowances towards the back.
- Fold the peplum pieces right sides together and stitch the front and lower edges. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the pieces right side out, press. Fold back the front corner and secure at the upper edge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the lower front part, press the allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the side seams of the lower part of the garment, press the allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back part, inserting the peplum between the pieces, press the allowances towards the center and serge.
- Secure the upper edge of the peplum to the upper edge of the lower part. Stitch the upper part of the garment to the lower part, press the allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark downwards, press the allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper.
- On the lining pieces, process the darts similarly to the main fabric pieces. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back. Serge the lower and center seams. Fold the lining with the neckline right sides together. Fold back the lining 5 mm from the edges of the concealed zipper and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin to the neckline edge over the lining. Stitch the neckline edge, clip the allowances at curves. Turn the piece right side out and press. Finish the armhole with lining in two steps: first the left, then the right. Clip the allowances at corners and curves, press. Fold under the center seam of the lining and attach it to the zipper tape. Secure the lining to the garment at the waist seam.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hand stitch with blind stitches.
