Fitted Collarless Asymmetrical Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a fitted, collarless jacket featuring an asymmetrical button-front closure and a single decorative flap.
When To Wear
This jacket offers a modern and versatile style, perfect for:
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Office & Business Casual: a polished alternative to a traditional blazer, ideal for professional settings.
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Smart Everyday Wear: Elevates casual outfits with a touch of contemporary sophistication.
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Evening & Special Occasions: Can be dressed up for semi-formal gatherings or events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with carefully placed shaping seams for a tailored, flattering look.
Neckline: Collarless, featuring a clean, rounded neckline that sits neatly at the base of the neck.
Closure: Asymmetrical front closure secured by three buttons, creating a modern, overlapping design.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a smooth, tailored arm line.
Pockets: a single decorative flap positioned on the wearer's right front.
Back: Shaped with vertical princess seams that follow the contours of the body for an elegant finish.
Length: Hip-length, designed to sit neatly just above the hips.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves precise shaping seams, welt pocket construction, two-piece sleeves, and full lining, requiring confident sewing and tailoring skills.
Fabric Recommendations
Achieve the best structure and drape with medium-weight fabrics:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Flap
- Facing
- Back neckline facing
- Center front
Attention: Front and back pieces from lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the flap, facings, back neckline facing, center front pieces, and armhole edges on the front and back with fusible interlining.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch front darts, trim dart depth. Press dart towards the center of the piece and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seams of the back and front, press allowances towards the center and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side.
- Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams.
- Fold the flap piece right sides together and stitch the short edges. Turn right side out, press, overlock the raw edge, and topstitch around the perimeter. Topstitch the flap onto the right front according to the markings.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the facings, press allowances open.
- Place the facings with the garment and stitch the front edges and neckline in one seam. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves, turn the garment right side out, press. Press up the hem of the garment.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the back neckline facing.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- Topstitch along the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the jacket.
- On the right front, overlock buttonholes. Sew buttons onto the left front accordingly.
