Fitted Collarless Asymmetrical Jacket

Name: Fitted Collarless Asymmetrical Jacket
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4187
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4187

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with a collarless round neckline, an off-centre button closure, princess seams combined with darts on the front and back, and a decorative flap on the right front. Two-piece sleeves and a full lining. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Fitted Collarless Asymmetrical Jacket

When To Wear

As a suit jacket at the office, with a skirt or trousers in matching suiting.
Over dresses and fine knitwear in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams and darts; the front darts are topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.

Length: Hip length.

Neckline: Round and collarless, finished with the front facings and a back neckline facing in one seam with the front edges.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves with elbow and front seams, shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Closure: Asymmetrical front with the opening shifted off centre; buttonholes on the right front, 3 buttons on the left front.

Pockets: No pockets; a single decorative flap, topstitched around its edges, is stitched onto the right front.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.

Finishing: Princess seams topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam; front edges, neckline and hem topstitched. Hem and sleeve hem allowance 3 cm.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, attached to the facings and bagged out through an opening in the right sleeve lining.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams with darts and topstitching, an asymmetric faced front, two-piece sleeves with shoulder pads and sleeve heads, and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics in natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (flap, facings, back neckline facing, centre fronts, armhole edges)
3 buttons
Shoulder pads
Sleeve heads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Right facing – 1 piece
- Left facing – 1 piece
- Flap – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
From fusible interlining:
- Flap
- Facing
- Back neckline facing
- Center front

Attention: Front and back pieces from lining are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Interface the flap, facings, back neckline facing, center front pieces, and armhole edges on the front and back with fusible interlining.
Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch front darts, trim dart depth. Press dart towards the center of the piece and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
Stitch the princess seams of the back and front, press allowances towards the center and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side.
Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams.
Fold the flap piece right sides together and stitch the short edges. Turn right side out, press, overlock the raw edge, and topstitch around the perimeter. Topstitch the flap onto the right front according to the markings.
Stitch the back neckline facing to the facings, press allowances open.
Place the facings with the garment and stitch the front edges and neckline in one seam. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves, turn the garment right side out, press. Press up the hem of the garment.
Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings and the back neckline facing.
Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
Topstitch along the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the jacket.
On the right front, make buttonholes. Sew buttons onto the left front accordingly.