Tailored Two-Button Blazer With Collar
A women's fitted, lined jacket with a notched collar and a two-button front. A shaped waist insert separates the bodice from a pleated lower part with rounded front corners.
When To Wear
- As a suit jacket with a skirt or trousers for the office.
- Over dresses and blouses in spring and autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through princess seams on the front and back and back darts; the lower part flares slightly from stitched pleats.
Length: Hip length.
Collar: Notched collar with lapels; upper and under collar set separately, lapel roll line stabilised with stay tape.
Front: Single-breasted, two buttons, buttonholes on the right front.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; eased sleeve cap.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts.
Waist: Front and back waist inserts sewn below the bodice; the lower front and back are pleated 2 cm from the top edge, pleats pressed towards the centre.
Finishing: Lower part faced with lining along the front edges and hem; rounded lower front edge stabilised with stay tape; shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves; the jacket is turned through an opening in the sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Notched collar with separate upper and under collar, understitched facings, a pleated lower part joined between the shell and lining, and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight suiting fabric of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front inserts, front facings, back neckline facing, upper collar, sleeve hems) and 1 cm stay tape
- 2 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Under collar - 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Back insert – 1 piece
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Front insert – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Under sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front
- Front insert
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Upper collar
- Sleeve hem
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front, along the lapel roll line and on the lower front along the rounded edge, apply a 1 cm wide grainline stay (from fusible interfacing).
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Attach the corresponding inserts to the back and front, press allowances towards the inserts.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- On the lower back and front pieces, create and stitch pleats 2 cm from the upper edge. Press the pleat depths towards the center of the pieces. Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower pieces. Process lining pieces similarly. Place the main piece with the lining, and stitch the edges of the facings and the lower edge. Clip allowances at curves, turn right side out, and press. Attach the lower of the jacket to the main piece (facing allowances extend 1 cm).
- Place the upper collar with the under collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching precisely at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and the front facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitch up to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Understitch the facing seam allowance: in the button area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten seams.
- Attach the under collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armhole according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Turn the front facings with lining to the wrong side and attach, placing the lower of the jacket between the main fabric and the lining. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
