Wrap Peplum Shawl Collar Jacket
A women's fitted, lined jacket with a shawl collar and a wrap front fastened with a hook and eye. A double-layer flounce is caught into the waist seam between the bodice and the hip-length lower part, falling in a cascade at the front.
When To Wear
- To the office over a dress or with a pencil skirt or slim trousers.
- In spring and autumn for daytime events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with princess seams on the front and back, plus back darts; a horizontal waist seam joins it to the lower part.
Length: Hip length; the flounce hangs lower at the front.
Collar: Shawl collar cut in one with the centre fronts, joined at the centre back seam of the collar and set into the back neckline.
Closure: Wrap front, right over left, with a hook and eye.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with an elbow seam; sleeve cap eased into the armhole.
Back: Centre back seam, princess seams and darts; the lower back is cut in one piece.
Waist: Flounce made of a back piece and left and right front pieces, cut double, stitched and turned, then inserted into the waist seam.
Finishing: Interfaced front, facings and hems; shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, cut to the main pieces minus the facings; the jacket is turned through an opening in the sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A cut-on shawl collar with corner clipping at the shoulder, a faced flounce set into a seam, two-piece sleeves with eased caps and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Lightweight, drapey suiting fabric of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (centre fronts, front facings, back neckline facing, hem and sleeve hem allowances)
- Hook and eye
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve head rolls
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Back flounce – 2 pieces
- Left front flounce – 2 pieces
- Right front flounce – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center front
- Front facing
- Back neckline facing
- Hem allowance for bottom and sleeve hem
Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main garment patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Reinforce pieces with fusible interfacing.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the jacket. Stitch shoulder seams, clip at the corner, press open allowances. Stitch collar edge, press open allowances. Attach collar to neckline, press open allowances.
- Stitch and press open the side seams of the lower parts.
- Attach the left and right front flounces to the back flounce, press open allowances. Fold the upper flounce with the lower one and stitch the lower edge and upper edge up to the marks. Trim allowances at corners, clip at marks and curves. Turn flounce right side out, straighten and press.
- Attach the lower of the garment to the upper, inserting the flounce between them. Press allowances upwards.
- Stitch, clip at the corner, and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch collar edge, press open allowances. Attach collar to facing neckline, press open allowances.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch all around the front edge and collar edge, folding back the flounce. Stitch the lower corners of the front edge. Trim seams at corners. Turn facings right side out, straighten seams, press. Press up the garment hem.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- On the right front, sew a hook, and on the left front, sew an eye.
