Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: raincoat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; 6 buttons; lining; shoulder pads.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 2 cm, for pocket bag and welt edges — 2 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Yoke – 1 piece
- Yoke facing – 1 piece
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Lower collar – 1 piece
- Welt – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- Ruffle1 – 1 piece
- Ruffle2 – 1 piece
- Ruffle3 – 1 piece
- Ruffle4 – 1 piece
- Belt loop — 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Side back part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar.
ATTENTION: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match! Attention: Relief and side edges of the garment are overlocked from waist to hem.
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, armhole edge on the front and back. Fuse the pocket placement area on the side front part. Along the lapel fold line on the front, apply a 1 cm wide grainline strip (from fusible interfacing).
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the small pocket bag to the wrong side of the welt. Stitch the welt to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welt and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch and press open the front relief seams.
- Stitch and press open the center seams on the upper and lower back parts.
- Face the lower edge of the yoke with the facing. Clip the seams. Turn the facing to the wrong side, press and topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge. Place the yoke on the upper back part and topstitch along the yoke with a decorative – securing stitch.
- Overlock the lower and upper edges of ruffle2, ruffle3, and ruffle4. Overlock the lower edge of ruffle1. Fold the lower edges of the ruffles inwards and topstitch. Place ruffle4 right sides together with the lower back part. The lower edge of the ruffle points upwards. Topstitch the ruffle along the marking. Fold the ruffle down and secure it to the back along the side edges. Similarly, topstitch ruffles 2 and 3. Secure ruffle1 and the lower back part along the upper and side edges.
- Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Press seam allowances upwards. Stitch the back relief seams. Press seam allowances towards the side edge.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the front facings, press seam allowances open.
- Fold the collars right sides together and stitch the outer edge and ends of the collar. Clip seam allowances at the notch, turn the collar right side out and press.
- Overlock and press up the hem of the garment. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and hem strictly along the marked line. Stitching is done upwards to the notch, which defines the end of collar insertion. Trim the seams of the upper and lower front corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front facing: in the button placket area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the front piece. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front facings to the right side, straighten the seams. Topstitch the hem of the garment.
- Insert the lower collar into the jacket neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press seams open. Secure the stitching seams of the upper and lower collars together. Turn the garment right side out, press.
- Overlock one long side of the belt loop piece. Press seam allowances onto the belt loop and topstitch (overlocked allowance on top). Cut into belt loops.
- Topstitch belt loops onto the sleeve pieces. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Insert sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and insert sleeves. Double fold the lining hem by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Stitch the lining to the sleeve hem.
- Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Fold the tab in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the tab right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Turn the belt right side out through the opening and sew it closed. Topstitch along the contour 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Sew belt loops at the level of the front and back relief seams.
- On the right front and tab, overlock buttonholes. Sew on buttons accordingly. Sew a decorative button on the yoke.
