Military Style Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a tailored, fitted military style jacket with a stand collar and a long row of buttons.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for a range of occasions, adding a refined touch to your ensemble:
- Formal Events & Professional Settings: Its tailored silhouette and stand collar make it ideal for business meetings or elegant gatherings.
- Smart Casual Outings: Pair it with trousers or a skirt for a polished yet comfortable look for day-to-day wear.
- Seasonal Layering: Provides warmth and style as a chic outer layer during cooler weather.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted silhouette shaped by princess seams and darts, accentuating the waist.
Neckline & Collar: a high stand collar that buttons closed, creating an upright and elegant neckline.
Closure: Single-breasted front closure with eleven buttons in total, running from the stand collar down the front almost to the hem.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves designed for a tailored fit.
Pockets: In-seam pockets set into the front princess seams.
Back: Princess seams and a center back seam, plus back darts, ensure a close fit.
Hem: The front edges are rounded at the hem.
Lining: Fully lined, with shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Finish: Topstitching along the front edges, stand collar, jacket hem and sleeve hems.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires confident sewing skills, including precise seam matching, in-seam pockets, lining construction, and setting in two-piece sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Select fabrics with good structure to achieve the desired tailored look:
- Lightweight coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 11 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve 4 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Strips to reinforce the armhole edges and the pocket openings (cut by measurement)
Attention: the Center Front and Center Back lining pieces are cut from the main fabric patterns, minus the width of the Center Front Facing and Back Neckline Facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Stand Collar and Center Front pieces, and along the armhole edges of the front and back. Reinforce the pocket area on the Center Front and Side Front pieces.
- Mark the darts on the front and back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the center. Stitch the front darts, cut the dart open along the fold, press it towards the center of the piece and topstitch.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back) and press open. Stitch the center back seam and press open.
- Place the Pocket Bags on the right side of the Side Front and Center Front pieces. Stitch each pocket bag to the pocket opening allowance. Fold the Side Front seam allowance back and topstitch it onto the pocket bag.
- Stitch the front princess seams together with the pocket bags. Clip the allowance at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press the allowances open, pressing the pocket at the same time.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams and press open.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings, press allowances open.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the jacket neckline and the inner Stand Collar to the neckline of the facings. Clip the allowances at the curves and press open. Place the facings on the jacket right sides together and stitch the front edges and the stand collar in one seam. Trim the corners, clip the curves, turn right side out and press. Press up the hem of the jacket.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve (Upper Sleeve to Lower Sleeve) and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front sleeve seam and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Insert the shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the seams of the lining and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right lining sleeve.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the facings. Tack the allowances of the stand collar seams together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the jacket hem and the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining and close the opening.
- Topstitch along the front edges, stand collar, jacket hem and sleeve hems.
- Work buttonholes on the right front and the Stand Collar. Sew the buttons on the left front to match.
