Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers, for example, thin raincoat fabric. Also needed: fusible interfacing, concealed zipper, 2 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 2 pieces
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Front insert — 1 piece
- Back insert — 1 piece
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Tab – 4 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back parts. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center seam of the upper and lower back parts. Press seam to the left side and overcast. Attach the back insert to the upper and lower parts. Press seam towards the insert and overcast.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press seam towards the center front and overcast. On the center and side front parts, make soft pleats according to markings and secure them at the lower edge. Pleat depths are directed towards the side seam.
- Attach the back sleeve part to the back. Overcast seam and press towards the sleeve. Attach the front sleeve part to the front. Overcast seam and press towards the sleeve. Stitch the upper sleeve seam. Overcast seam and press towards the back.
- Stitch shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seams towards the front. Overcast the outer edge of the facing and front facings. Insert the upper collar into the back and front neckline, the lower collar into the facing and front facing neckline. Press seams open.
- Place front facings right sides together with the front and stitch the front edge and collar. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out and shape. Press collar and front edges. Secure the seam allowances of the upper and lower collar together close to the stitching line.
- Fold the right and left front parts along the center front line and secure the pieces together. Attach the front insert to the upper part. Press seam towards the insert and overcast.
- Place the pocket bag right side in with the lower front part and stitch the pocket opening. Clip seams, turn pieces right side out and press. Place the lower front part with the side panel according to markings and align edges. Stitch and overcast pocket bag edges.
- Make soft pleats on the lower front part: pleat depths are directed towards the side seams, forming a box pleat in the middle of the piece. It is recommended to make pleats from the side seam. Attach the front insert to the lower part. Press seam towards the insert and overcast.
- Stitch the right side seam, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam, simultaneously stitching the sleeve seam and leaving an opening for the zipper. Insert the zipper between the markings.
- Fold tab pieces right sides together and stitch 3 sides. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn pieces right side out and press. Make a buttonhole according to markings. Attach the tab to the lower edge of the sleeve, positioning the tab on the wrong side of the sleeve at the level of the upper edge.
- Fold the cuff in half and stitch into a loop. Press seam open, turn piece right side out and press. Fold the cuff in half, insert into the sleeve from the wrong side and attach to the sleeve. Overcast seam and press towards the sleeve. Turn up the cuff twice so that the finished cuff width is 5 cm. Sew a button on the sleeve corresponding to the buttonhole on the tab.
- Overcast the lower edge of the dress, fold up and topstitch. The dress is recommended to be worn with a wide belt.
