Cropped Gathered 3/4 Sleeve Bolero

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: silk suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; sleeve heads.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Yoke - 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Yoke - 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, back hem facing, back neckline facing, yoke, sleeve hem.

ATTENTION: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively. When cutting the front lining, lay pleats on the main fabric pattern.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center.
3. On the front, stitch pleats according to markings. Distribute pleats to both sides, forming a box pleat. Attach yoke to front. Overcast seam and press towards yoke.
4. Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
5. Stitch and press open collar seam. Clip seam allowance at the corner of the yoke. Attach collar to neckline. Press seam allowances open.
6. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach back hem facing to front facing. Press seams open. Clip seam allowance at the corner of the front facing. Attach collar to the neckline of the back facing. Press seam allowances open.
7. Place front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, collar, and hem. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn front edges to the right side, straighten seams.
8. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
9. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
10. On the lining pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
11. Attach lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings. Secure collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
12. Attach lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the bolero right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.