Draped Front Jacket
The Draped Front Jacket offers a sophisticated and tailored silhouette, featuring a gracefully draped open front.
When To Wear
This sophisticated jacket is versatile, making it perfect for:
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Professional Settings: Paired with tailored trousers or skirts for a polished business-casual look.
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Evening & Social Events: The elegant draped front elevates it for upscale gatherings or dinners.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored jacket designed to provide an outstanding appearance.
Neckline: Features an elegant, open draped front neckline that creates a soft, flowing aesthetic.
Closure: a discreet hook & eye closure is placed at the front to secure the draped panels.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length, two-piece set-in sleeves with tailored cuffs.
Back: Fitted with vertical style lines for a flattering shape.
Hem: The jacket features an asymmetrical, waterfall-style draped hem at the front.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires confident tailoring skills, including working with draping, setting in sleeves, applying interfacing and lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics that offer a good drape while holding some structure:
- Silk suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 1 hook & eye
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Middle front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing – 1 piece
- Front hem facing – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Lining for middle front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interlining:
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Front placket – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back hem facing – 1 piece
- Front hem facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interlining.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the back neckline facing to the back, clip seam allowances, press towards the facing.
- Fold the lower front with the placket and stitch the front edge and the lower edge between the round marks. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the piece right side out, press.
- Fold the front facing with the placket and stitch the front edge, stopping 3-4 cm before the upper edge and inserting the hook and eye according to the markings. Clip seam allowances at the corner.
- Attach the middle front to the placket along the vertical edge, press seam allowances towards the placket. Form pleats on the lower according to the sketch, secure them along the upper edge. Attach the lower edge of the middle front to the lower, and the lower edge of the front facing to the placket. Press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press seam allowances towards the lower. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the corners from the fold to the mark. Fold the cuff into a loop and stitch the sections from the edge to the mark, press seam allowances open. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, press seam allowances towards the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch and press open the side seams of the back and front hem facings.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam of the sleeve. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facings.
- Turn the front facing with the facing to the right side and stitch the open section of the front neckline, back neckline, and jacket hem. Stitching is done from the front side.
- Attach the lining to the inner edge of the cuff. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
