Short Sleeve Collared Belted Dress with Turn-Back Cuffs
A women's knee-length dress with a waist seam, a crossover front with a V-neck, front and back yokes, princess seams in the bodice and short sleeves with turned-back cuffs. It closes with an invisible zip in the left side seam and has a self-fabric belt with a buckle and three belt loops.
When To Wear
- For the office in spring and summer, with pumps or loafers.
- For daytime outings and travel, with sandals or trainers.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice with a waist seam, straight skirt.
Length: Knee length.
Collar: Shirt-type collar cut from two pieces, interfaced, set into the V-neckline.
Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves finished with a folded cuff, interfaced and turned back onto the right side.
Front: Front yokes and princess seams; the right centre front laps over the left in a crossover, both with cut-on interfaced facings topstitched along a marked line. The lower front is one piece.
Closure: Invisible zip in the left side seam.
Back: Back yoke and princess seams above the waist; below the waist a back insert and a lower back in two pieces with darts, a centre back seam and a vent.
Waist: Self-fabric belt threaded through a buckle, held by three belt loops at the centre back and side seams.
Finishing: Seams overlocked, hem turned up and topstitched.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A lapped crossover front with cut-on facings, a centre back vent, a collar set with an inner stand stitched in the ditch, cuffs and an invisible zip.
Fabric Recommendations
Dress fabrics in natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zip
- Fusible interfacing (collar, cuffs, cut-on facings, vent)
- Decorative buckle for the belt
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances; if the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm, vent allowance – 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Back yoke - 1 piece
- Center back - 1 piece
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Back insert - 1 piece
- Lower back - 2 pieces
- Lower front - 1 piece
- Side front - 2 pieces
- Center front left – 1 piece
- Center front right – 1 piece
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Belt — 1 piece
- Belt loop — 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Markings on patterns are on the right side!
- Fuse interfacing to the collar stand, cuffs, and integrated facings.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overlock. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke and overlock.
- Stitch the darts on the lower back pieces, press depths towards the center. On the left lower back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both lower back pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left piece along the vent fold line, on the right piece, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Overlock the vent allowances. Stitch the center seam from the top to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
- Attach the back insert to the lower, press allowances towards the insert and overlock. Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances down and overlock.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overlock. Attach the yokes to the front pieces, press allowances towards the yoke and overlock. Overlock the inner edges of the integrated facings.
- On the left front piece, press the integrated facing to the right side and stitch the upper corner. Clip allowances at the neckline corner, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the facing to the front piece along the marked line.
- On the right front piece, press the integrated facing to the right side and stitch the upper corner. Clip allowances at the neckline corner, turn the facing to the wrong side, press. Place the right front piece over the left, aligning the inner edge of the right facing with the bias edge of the left front piece. Topstitch the right facing along the marked line, securing the right and left front pieces.
- Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances down and overlock.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Overlock the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the mark and from the mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and the collar edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar, shape and press.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, clip allowances and press towards the stand. Turn under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and overlock.
- Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Align the cuff with the wrong side of the sleeve and attach. Press allowances and overlock. Turn the cuff to the right side.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overlock one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 3 pieces. Attach the belt loops at the waist at the center back and at the side seams.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out and press, overlock the short edge. Thread the overlock edge of the belt through the buckle and topstitch.
