Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: well-draping knit fabric with medium stretch from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: elastic 2 cm wide, elastic 0.5 cm wide.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance – 1.5 cm, top upper edge allowance – 2.5 cm, other seams 0.8 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. Inscriptions on the patterns are on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part – 1 piece on fold
- Skirt – 2 pieces
- Front top – 1 piece
- Back top – 1 piece
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!
- Stitch the side seams of the skirt. Press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the darts on the front top. Trim the depths with an overlocker. Stitch the side seams. Press allowances towards the back and serge. Attach the 2 cm wide elastic with a slight overlap to the upper edge of the top. Fold the allowance together with the elastic downwards and topstitch with an elastic stitch (or on a coverstitch machine).
- Lay out the upper back and front parts in a single layer and stitch the side seam separately on the outer and inner sides. Press the seams. Fold the pieces right sides together and finish the armhole. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
- Lay out the pieces in a single layer in section “3”, fold the back and front right sides together and stitch this section between the notches. Press the seam, turn the pieces right side out.
- Fold the front right sides together and finish the corner between the notches in the upper part of the piece on a straight stitch machine. Clip the allowances near the notches, turn the pieces right side out. Process the corner on the back similarly. Twist the plackets as shown in the illustration.
- Lay out the pieces in a single layer. Fold the back and front right sides together along section “2” and stitch. Press the seam. Fold the pieces in half lengthwise.
- Finish the section between the round marks. To do this, fold the pieces right sides together and, ENSURING the possibility of subsequent turning, finish the section. Turn the piece right side out and press.
- Attach the placket to the upper edge of the back and front, aligning the notches.
- Along the lower edge of the upper front part, make a stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Align the lower edge of the upper back and front parts with the top. Attach the pieces to the skirt.
- Topstitch the 0.5 cm wide elastic with a “zigzag” stitch on the wrong side of the skirt along the seam attaching the bodice.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment. Press to the wrong side and topstitch.
