Contrasting Pleated Front Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: well-draping dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers in contrasting colors. Also needed: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance – 2 cm. Other allowances - 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 1 piece
  • Lower front part – 1 piece
  • Back facing – 2 pieces
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Middle front part – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Upper front part – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce back facings with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the back, press allowances towards the center. Overcast middle back edges separately. Stitch the middle back edge from the mark downwards, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
3. On the lower front part, lay and secure a pleat. Attach the lower front part to the middle part, creating arbitrary pleats between the marks. Clip allowances on the curve, press towards the middle part and overcast.
4. Lay and secure a pleat on the upper front part according to the marking (depth directed towards the center). Lay and secure pleats on the lining piece of the upper front part. Place the upper front part with the lining right sides together and stitch the neckline and armholes. Clip allowances on the curves, turn the piece right side out and press. Align and secure the lower edges of the upper front part and lining, creating arbitrary pleats along the edge of the main piece between the marks.
5. Attach the upper front part to the middle part. Press allowances towards the middle part and overcast.
6. Overcast the lower edges of the back neckline facings. Place the back facing with the back right sides together and stitch the back neckline and armholes. Clip allowances on the curves. Insert the shoulder edge of the front between the back and the facing, folding allowances on the back, and stitch the shoulder edge. Place the back and front along the side edge, cover with the facing and stitch. Press allowances towards the back and overcast. Turn the garment right side out, straighten, press. Fold the allowance of the middle facing edge and secure it to the zipper tape.
7. Press the lower hem allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.