Short Strappy Surplice Bow Dress
A short fitted women's dress with a lined surplice bodice on wide straps, a wide midriff band front and back, a tied bow sewn on at the waist and a slim skirt with soft pleats on the front. Invisible zip in the left side seam.
When To Wear
- Cocktail parties, birthdays and summer evening events.
- Weddings as a guest, with a light wrap or bolero over the straps.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted bodice and midriff, slim skirt.
Length: Above the knee.
Neckline: Surplice V: two upper front pieces cross over, each with stitched pleats directed towards the centre front.
Sleeves: Sleeveless, on wide straps cut separately and attached at the back after the length is adjusted.
Waist: A deep midriff band on the front and back; a tied bow, sewn on, sits off-centre on the front band.
Skirt: Front with pleats laid towards the right side seam; back with darts and a centre back seam.
Back: Straight upper back edge, faced with lining.
Closure: Invisible zip in the left side seam.
Finishing: Hem overlocked and hemmed with blind stitches.
Lining: The upper front and upper back are lined; the lining is stitched into the midriff seam and sewn to the zip tape.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. A lined crossover bodice attached in stages (partly with and partly without the lining), strap length adjusted at fitting, pleats in two directions and an invisible zip sewn into the outer fabric only.
Fabric Recommendations
Firm silk dress fabrics from natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Invisible zip
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: 2 cm for the bottom hem, 1 cm for all other seams. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Upper front piece – 2 pieces
- Middle front piece – 1 piece
- Lower front piece – 1 piece
- Upper back piece – 1 piece
- Middle back piece – 1 piece
- Lower back piece – 2 pieces
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Bow – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Upper front piece – 2 pieces
- Upper back piece – 1 piece
Lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the lower back piece. Press the darts towards the center back. Stitch the center seam of the lower back piece. Overlock and press the seam. Attach the middle back piece to the lower back piece. Press the seam upwards and overlock.
- On the lower front piece, create pleats and secure them along the upper edge. The depths of all pleats are directed towards the right side seam. Attach the middle front piece to the lower front piece. Press the seam upwards and overlock.
- On the main fabric and lining pieces of the upper front, create and stitch pleats according to the markings. The depths are directed towards the center front.
- Stitch the right side seam separately on the upper and lower parts of the dress. Overlock and press the seam towards the back. Overlock the left side edges separately. Stitch the left side seam on the lower: from the mark to the bottom; on the upper: from the upper edge to the mark.
- Process the lining side seams similarly to the main fabric pieces.
- Fold the strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the longitudinal edge. Turn the strap right side out and press. Attach the strap to the front piece, positioning the fold closer to the neckline.
- Place the lining with the main fabric pieces and stitch the wrap-around edge, the upper edge of the front piece (strap), the armhole of the front piece, and the section of the upper back edge from the side seam to the first strap mark. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, turn the pieces right side out, and press. Clip the seam allowance of the lower lining edge at the mark. Align the main fabric and lining pieces along the lower front edge from the wrap-around edge to the mark.
- Attach the upper of the dress to the main piece. Begin attaching from the right upper front piece. From the wrap-around to the mark, attach the piece together with the lining; then fold back the lining and attach only the main fabric pieces. Similarly, attach the left upper front piece. Overlock and press the seam downwards.
- Insert the concealed zipper only into the main fabric pieces. Press the seam.
- Attach the strap to the back, after adjusting the strap length. Stitch the upper back edge with the lining. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
- Fold the lower edge of the lining inwards and topstitch into the seam of the middle piece attachment. Fold the left side edge of the lining and sew it to the zipper tape.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the bow in half lengthwise and stitch the short edges and the long edge, leaving an opening in the middle 10-15 cm long for turning. Turn the bow right side out, press, and stitch the opening closed. Tie the bow and sew it to the dress as shown in the illustration.
