Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim

Name: Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4122
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4122

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket in dense low-stretch knit, with princess seams at front and back, a deep U-shaped neckline and a gathered trim in a silk companion fabric along the neckline and front edges. Three-button front, one-piece long sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: dense knit with low stretch, such as French terry, with a silk companion fabric for the trim.

Tech. Description

Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim

When To Wear

In autumn and spring over a fine knit top or a shell, with trousers or a straight skirt.
To the office as a soft alternative to a woven blazer.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped by princess seams on the fronts and the back.

Length: Hip length; hem allowance 3 cm, turned up and topstitched.

Neckline: Deep U-shaped neckline without a collar, finished with front facings and a back neckline facing.

Front: Gathered trim cut in two pieces from silk, joined at the centre back, stitched along a marked line around the neckline and down both front edges, then folded back and held 0.5 cm from the outer edge.

Closure: Three buttons, buttonholes on the right front.

Sleeves: Long, set-in, one-piece, cap eased at the top; hem allowance 3 cm, topstitched.

Back: Centre back seam and princess seams.

Finishing: Front edges, neckline and front hem faced in one seam, understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; facings hand-tacked at the shoulders. Seam allowances overlocked. Unlined.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Princess seams in knit, a gathered silk trim set on a marked line, an all-in-one facing and buttonholes in knit.

Fabric Recommendations

Dense knit with low stretch, such as French terry, with a silk companion fabric for the trim.

Additional Supplies

Silk companion fabric for the trim
3 buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
From companion fabric:
- Trimming – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Front and Side Front pieces. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back pieces. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch, finish, and press the center back seam towards the left. Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
Join the two Trimming pieces along the upper (center back) edge. Press seam allowances open. Stitch along the long edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Place the Trimming on the right side of the jacket, right side down, aligning the inner edge of the trim with the marked line. Topstitch the trim. Fold back the trim, aligning the outer edges of the trim and jacket. Secure along the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings at the shoulder seams. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back. Finish the outer edge.
Place the joined facings on the right side of the jacket, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edges, front and back neckline and the bottom of the jacket front, stitching with the jacket front on top. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the facing, 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the facing to the wrong side, clipping at curves. Hand-tack the facing to the shoulder seams.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and finish. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Press seam allowances and finish.
Finish the bottom of the jacket, fold inwards and topstitch.
Finish the bottom of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.