Open Front Jacket with Bell Sleeves

Name: Open Front Jacket with Bell Sleeves
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4114
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4114

A short women's jacket with a round collarless neckline, front edges that meet edge to edge without fastenings, a yoke across the front and back, and wide flared sleeves cut in two halves. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: wool fabric.

Tech. Description

Open Front Jacket with Bell Sleeves

When To Wear

In autumn and spring over a fitted top or a dress, worn open.
With high-waisted trousers or a skirt, where the short length sits above the waist of the bottom.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Boxy, straight body with wide, flared sleeves.

Length: Cropped, ending around the waist to high hip.

Neckline: Round and collarless, finished with front facings and a back neckline facing.

Sleeves: Set into an open armhole; each sleeve is cut from a front and a back half joined by an overarm seam, flaring towards the hem. The underarm seam and the side seam are stitched in one pass.

Closure: No closure: the front edges meet edge to edge. A decorative hanging loop can be added if desired.

Front: Yoke seam across the upper front, with darts on the fronts pressed upwards.

Back: Yoke across the upper back joined to a one-piece back.

Finishing: Front edges understitched 0.2 cm from the seam; front edges and neckline topstitched 1 cm from the edge; sleeves topstitched 3.5 cm from the hem. Hem and sleeve hem allowances 4.5 cm, interfaced.

Lining: Full lining including the sleeves, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve seam. The lining fronts and back are cut minus the width of the facings.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Yoke seams, sleeves set into an open armhole, facings with understitching and a fully bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Wool fabric.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neckline facing, sleeve and garment hem allowances)

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Yoke — 1 piece
- Back Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
From lining fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Yoke — 1 piece
- Back Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front Sleeve — 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Strips for the sleeve hem allowance and the garment hem allowance

Attention: the Front and Back lining pieces are cut minus the width of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing respectively.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings, the Back Neckline Facing and the sleeve and garment hem allowances.
Stitch the darts on the Fronts. Press the darts upwards. Stitch the Yoke to the Back and the Fronts. Press the seams towards the Yoke.
Stitch the Back Sleeve to the Front Sleeve along the upper (overarm) seam. Press the seam open.
Set the sleeve into the open armhole. Press the seam open. Stitch the underarm sleeve seam and the side seam in one pass. Press seams open.
Stitch the Center Front Facings to the Back Neckline Facing at the shoulder seams and press open.
Place the joined facings on the right side of the jacket, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edges and neckline, sewing with the jacket side up. Understitch the front edge seam allowance to the facing 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower edges of the Center Front Facings to the Fronts exactly along the marked hemline. Trim seams at corners. Turn the facings to the inside, roll the seams to the edge and press.
Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an unstitched section in the lower left sleeve seam for subsequent turning. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Stitch the opening closed.
Topstitch 1 cm from the edge along the front edge and neckline. Topstitch 3.5 cm from the bottom of the sleeve. Note: the jacket has no closure; the front edges meet edge to edge. If desired, a decorative hanging loop can be added.