Jacket with Draped Collar & Asymmetric Closure

Name: Jacket with Draped Collar & Asymmetric Closure
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4113
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4113

A fitted, hip-length women's jacket with a cascading draped collar cut in one with the centre fronts, an asymmetric lower front that laps to a point and fastens with three buttons, princess seams front and back and two-piece set-in sleeves. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Jacket with Draped Collar & Asymmetric Closure

When To Wear

To the office with straight trousers or a pencil skirt, in place of a plain blazer.
Over a slim dress or a simple top for dinners and daytime events, in spring and autumn.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Close-fitting, shaped at the waist by princess seams and back darts.

Length: Hip length.

Collar: Draped collar cut in one with the centre fronts; the upper edges of the two centre fronts are joined and the collar is set into the back neckline, clipped at the corner. The centre front and lower front pieces are cut double, so the drape is self-faced.

Front: Princess seams from the shoulder to the hem; a lower front piece joined to each centre front forms the pointed, asymmetric overlap.

Closure: Three buttons with buttonholes along the overlapping edge.

Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves with eased sleeve caps; shoulder pads.

Back: Centre back seam, princess seams from the armhole and darts pressed towards the centre.

Lining: The side fronts, back and sleeves are lined; the back lining has a pleat in place of the dart. The lining is stitched to the jacket along the front edge, neckline and lower edge and turned through an opening in the right sleeve elbow seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Advanced. A self-faced draped collar set into a cornered neckline, multi-panel fronts with an asymmetric pointed overlap, two-piece sleeves with eased caps and a bagged lining.

Fabric Recommendations

Suiting fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

3 buttons
Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (back neckline facing, sleeve and jacket hem allowances)
Shoulder pads

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance 4 cm, all other seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

From main fabric:
- Center Front – 4 pieces
- Lower Front – 4 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
From lining fabric (the lining for the side fronts and the back is cut from the main pattern pieces):
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

Fuse interfacing to the Back Neckline Facing and to the sleeve and jacket hem allowances.
Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams joining the Center Back and Side Back. Press allowances open. Stitch center back seam. Press allowances open.
Stitch the Lower Front to the Center Front. Press the allowance open. Stitch the front princess seams joining the Side Front. Press allowances towards the center.
Stitch the upper (collar) edges of the two Center Front pieces together. Press allowances open.
Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open. Stitch the upper part of the Center Front into the back neckline, clipping at the corner.
Stitch the front seam joining the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve, press allowances open. Fold the sleeve hem allowance inwards and press. Stitch the elbow seam, press allowances open. Set the sleeve into the armhole, easing the sleeve cap. Attach shoulder pads.
On the Center Back lining, form a pleat in place of the dart. Stitch the center back seam and princess seams of the back lining. Stitch the inner Lower Front to the inner Center Front. Stitch the front princess seam joining the Side Front lining. Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the back lining. Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Stitch the upper part of the inner Center Front into the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing. Stitch sleeve seams, leaving an opening in the right elbow seam. Set sleeves into armholes.
Place the lining assembly on the jacket, right sides together, and stitch along the front edge, the neckline (collar edge) and the lower edge. Stitch with the jacket front on top. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
Make buttonholes and sew on the buttons.